Waking to a beautiful, cloudless blue sky was amazing. The temperature did not reflect the appearance, it was -3C.
We left at 6.45, arriving at Fort William Morrisons at 8.30 after a most beautiful drive. Snowy mountains, tranquil lochs with tree reflections making a picture of their own. We needed to shop for Pam's meals whilst on Mull plus fruit for me. We wanted to get some money too, as we need to pay for our Uist accommodation in cash on arrival. Both cash machines were out of order.
The Corran ferry to Ardnamurchan is only a short distance away, we caught the 9.10 and five minutes later, we drove off, first off the ferry.
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| The Lochaline - Fishnish Ferry, Drive on and stay in the car. |
We turned right to see the Black Guillemots and to miss the race to the next ferry at Lochaline. Consternation, no birds on the metal bridge. Pam then found two Tysties (B Guillemots) on a rusting wreck nearby. Unfortunately both were juvenile birds without the red beaks and gape of an adult.
Another beautiful drive to Lochaline, enhanced by good views of a Golden Eagle. It flew out from the crags on the right and then circled ever higher a short distance away.
The half an hour wait for the ferry at Lochaline was productive. Pam returned from the coffee shop having heard a Grasshopper Warbler in the bushes near the loos. It was very loud but, typically, hidden. Our first Blackcap sang too.
This crossing to Fishnish on easter Mull took fifteen minutes and we were again first off the boat. A short rest to scan the shore and, let the other traffic disappear, before driving to Grass Point, one of our favourite places. The first pair of Mull White-tailed Eagles bred here until last year, when they failed. No sign of any eagles to-day. A Cuckoo called, Stonechats, Willow Warblers and Wheatears were in the bramble covered stone wall and Tree Pipits sang and displayed from both sides.Two Ravens made a short visit.
A group of playful young male Red Deer were in a nearby field
with a small herd of Highland Cattle, the sun still shone, it was now warm too. Idyllic.
The road to Fionnphort is single track with passing places, the progress is syncopated but Pam is experienced at driving these roads. The locals are hard on tourists.
Pennyghael stores, in the middle of nowhere is always a call in. We usually buy the latest Bird Report there , this year they were not allowed to sell them, only available from the society. Very short-sighted I think.
Bunessan Bay had Eider, Redshank and Red-breasted Merganser with a distant Great Northern Diver. This is the departure point for Uisken. A few scattered houses on a lovely bay at the end of a moorland lane. Ruined stone houses all that remain as evidence of the Clearance.
A very low tide and dog walkers on the beach meant no birds, apart from a flock of Swallows swoop feeding on the insects which love the beached seaweed. On the way back, two Cuckoos were harried from wire to wire and post to post by, firstly, Meadow Pipits, then Song Thrushes and finally, Carrion Crows. Much hated birds for their parasitic behaviour. I love them.
Loch Pottie, on the outskirts of Fionnphort, had a lone lingering Whooper Swan, Tufted Duck and a Lesser Black-backed Gull amongst all the Herring Gulls.
Only two houses away from Seaview, our B and B, is the road to Fidden. Another favourite and a daily excursion. As we were getting tired I suggested to Pam that we only drive as far as the 'camping ground'. The only thing that distinguishes this from other undulating, short-cropped, maritime pasture at the edge of a rocky shore with a stream entering at the northern end, is the sign. I've never seen anyone camp here. Half a dozen Whimbrel were the first to appear
moving off as soon as they saw the car. Driving to the stream end, we added Shelduck, Redshank, Dunlin, Ringed Plover and a Mountain Hare which still had white legs and tummy. Off shore rocks looking into the setting sun had a dozen seals flopped about, heads up watching our progress.
A beautiful Hooded Crow, no trace of any mongrel ancestry, did not want its picture taken.
John was painting the front fence when we arrived, dressed in paint spattered overalls. We had our usual warm welcome and cuddle. Another carful of guests arrived so I went into the shop to order the papers, Pam got rid of the rubbish and then we unpacked the car. What a nuisance having to find room for everything in a single room after the space of the cottage.
John and Lainie one of the dogs, came back several times for a chat. It was very interesting to get a Scotsman's views on the SNP. He also said that this was the first day of spring for him, it's been a hard winter.
I'm longing for my bed to-night, I agree with Pam that we should leave the early boat to Iona for another day. I hope that this Blog entry doesn't have too many errors and has stranger English than usual !
Saturday May 9
How lovely to wake up to another sunny day, the temperature rose to 16C this afternoon. The view from our breakfast table is stunning. Across a sandy bay and the Sound of Mull to The Abbey on Iona - a source of much interest to foreign visitors, especially North Americans. We were joined by two women from North Carolina this morning. We always have early breakfast so can choose the best seats. John is the Metman and proclaims the forecast with the tea and toast delivery. Apparently to-morrow will be very wet and windy, only the first boat to Oban is likely to run. That decided us, Iona first on the later 9.55 boat and then Loch Scridain.
Very little to see during the boat crossing, flat calm. Maybe we stand a chance of a good number seeking shelter to-morrow. Straight to the area behind the Fire Station where the irises are still small, the grass tall. We coud hear the Corncrakes immediately. It settled to three calling birds in the field in front of us. The birds call every 5-10 minutes, when their heads pop up above the iris and grass. This is the best time to find them. Even in the relative shortness of the growth, they are very good at moving stealthily away. Pam found one first and I then scoped its movements for the next hour or so. At one time, it squeezed through the wire netting fence to the other field. I'd carried my scope so only had a small camera with which I attempted to digiscope, with varying results, none as good as I would have liked.
A selection of the less bad !
Whilst we watched, a Cuckoo and a Sedge Warbler sang, Wheatear, Linnet, Starling and Rook passed by. Rook is a rarity on Mull as is Magpie. One of the latter in Tobermory graveyard induced a mass twitch last year.
We were getting cold in the shade, the wind was chilling. Time to leave my seat on the yellow road salt container and move to the warmth of the Martyrs Bay cafe. We both had a welcome hot chocolate , Pam had both helpings of marshmallows and a sausage which she ate, very genteely, using a knife and fork. We added Common Tern, many Shags, Gannets and Cormorants from our window seat.
Having returned on the 12.00 boat and trudged up the hill from the ferry, I collected the papers and found Pam in a conversation with John who was painting the gate to-day. That and a later chat after collecting our gear for the day, delayed our start by an hour.
The shores of Loch Scridain are prime otter territory, we couldn't find one to-day. Many Grey Herons fished amongst the seaweed, Common Sandpipers called and I had a House Martin at last.
Where the road turns steeply inland, there is a small lane leading to Bagh Chill Phinichin (you try saying that). About 200 yards down the track, we pulled off onto a grassy knoll so that we could look at the forestry plantation to the north. The pair of eagles abandoned their previous nest - and the RSPB - last year and moved across the valley. They seem to have moved again this year. After about half an hour, I was reading and looking occasionally, Pam was scanning out of her side window constantly. An adult White-tailed Eagle appeared high above the trees, I had to get out to see it. After flying along the ridge, it disappeared behind. It was another 20 minutes before two sub adults made an appearance in the same area, one landing in the conifers. All rather distant but, they're such enormous birds, scope views are great. My favourite eagle, so impressive.
Time to return. Not long in miles to Fionnphort, on single track roads with Saturday traffic, winding around the shore of the loch, it takes a long time.
One stop to watch a stand off between a Buzzard and a Hooded Crow
we even whizzed past the many very young calves and delightful black-faced and kneed lambs.
We only missed the first 15 minutes of the Man U/ Crystal Palace game which we watched via SkyGo on my IPad. John invited us into the kitchen to watch with him, I refused as I can do something else as well in our room. We won 1-2 by the skin of our teeth via a late headed goal from Fellaini. Phew. We do miss Carrick who is out for the rest of the season.
Sunday May 10
To-day can be summed up by one word. Rain.
We'd ordered a late breakfast, it was gone 10 before we drove to the ferry area to have a look at the Sound of Iona. One Great Northern Diver, a few Gannets, Common Terns and Shags.
Sunday papers and Fidden next. A few Whimbrel amongst the sheep on the way to the camp site. Not raining hard yet, there was a kite flyer and a dog exercising family in the area, not good for birds. Two pairs of Eider, a couple of Ringed Plover and a small group of Dunlin and Ringed Plover.
We drove to the end of the road to-day, a very messy farm, Knockvelogen, where a walk begins. We were able to help a would be hiker, who couldn't make sense out of his leaflet, by consulting our SatNav as to which direction we were facing. We did find a group of about 30-40 Barnacle Geese, our first for Mull. On the return journey at least 40 black pinafored Golden Plover had dropped into the sheep field.
A conveniently placed passing place enabled me to try and photograph some Dunlin, the only photographs of the day. In the rain......
A small turnoff west to the six house settlement of Kintra, at the edge of a small bay, was our resting place to read the papers, do puzzles etc. before going on to Bunessan and a hot drink and a snack in The Bakehouse cafe. It's always been closed previously.
Some more reading at Uisken before returning for a short visit to Fidden and then Seaview..
Great, the rain stopped as we locked the car.
It should be better to-morrow.
Monday May 11
I'd finished writing this when the internet went down. It usually saves to draft. It didn't. I may get round to re-writing it, probably not to-night. I'll write to-day's first.
I did get round to it. It would have been interesting to compare the original with this version.
Version 2
Birding is so weather dependent, it’s difficult not to obsess about the forecast. Iffy for this morning was the general consensus.The wind was due to rise to 42 mph and John was doubtful that the Iona ferry would run. Maybe first thing but not later. A couple at breakfast were hoping to walk there to-day.
We started off by driving down to look at the Sound, maybe the wind would have driven some birds in to shelter. Gannets and Common Terns in addition to the usual Shags and Cormorants, no divers nor auks.
By the time I’d got my camera ready. the flock of Barnacle Geese at Fidden had climbed out of the water. Very distant, yet a sunny and clear morning might make a photograph worthwhile. I had my 1.5 extender on my 300mm lens and they still looked like this........
Saturday May 9
How lovely to wake up to another sunny day, the temperature rose to 16C this afternoon. The view from our breakfast table is stunning. Across a sandy bay and the Sound of Mull to The Abbey on Iona - a source of much interest to foreign visitors, especially North Americans. We were joined by two women from North Carolina this morning. We always have early breakfast so can choose the best seats. John is the Metman and proclaims the forecast with the tea and toast delivery. Apparently to-morrow will be very wet and windy, only the first boat to Oban is likely to run. That decided us, Iona first on the later 9.55 boat and then Loch Scridain.
Very little to see during the boat crossing, flat calm. Maybe we stand a chance of a good number seeking shelter to-morrow. Straight to the area behind the Fire Station where the irises are still small, the grass tall. We coud hear the Corncrakes immediately. It settled to three calling birds in the field in front of us. The birds call every 5-10 minutes, when their heads pop up above the iris and grass. This is the best time to find them. Even in the relative shortness of the growth, they are very good at moving stealthily away. Pam found one first and I then scoped its movements for the next hour or so. At one time, it squeezed through the wire netting fence to the other field. I'd carried my scope so only had a small camera with which I attempted to digiscope, with varying results, none as good as I would have liked.
A selection of the less bad !
Whilst we watched, a Cuckoo and a Sedge Warbler sang, Wheatear, Linnet, Starling and Rook passed by. Rook is a rarity on Mull as is Magpie. One of the latter in Tobermory graveyard induced a mass twitch last year.
We were getting cold in the shade, the wind was chilling. Time to leave my seat on the yellow road salt container and move to the warmth of the Martyrs Bay cafe. We both had a welcome hot chocolate , Pam had both helpings of marshmallows and a sausage which she ate, very genteely, using a knife and fork. We added Common Tern, many Shags, Gannets and Cormorants from our window seat.
Having returned on the 12.00 boat and trudged up the hill from the ferry, I collected the papers and found Pam in a conversation with John who was painting the gate to-day. That and a later chat after collecting our gear for the day, delayed our start by an hour.
The shores of Loch Scridain are prime otter territory, we couldn't find one to-day. Many Grey Herons fished amongst the seaweed, Common Sandpipers called and I had a House Martin at last.
Where the road turns steeply inland, there is a small lane leading to Bagh Chill Phinichin (you try saying that). About 200 yards down the track, we pulled off onto a grassy knoll so that we could look at the forestry plantation to the north. The pair of eagles abandoned their previous nest - and the RSPB - last year and moved across the valley. They seem to have moved again this year. After about half an hour, I was reading and looking occasionally, Pam was scanning out of her side window constantly. An adult White-tailed Eagle appeared high above the trees, I had to get out to see it. After flying along the ridge, it disappeared behind. It was another 20 minutes before two sub adults made an appearance in the same area, one landing in the conifers. All rather distant but, they're such enormous birds, scope views are great. My favourite eagle, so impressive.
Time to return. Not long in miles to Fionnphort, on single track roads with Saturday traffic, winding around the shore of the loch, it takes a long time.
One stop to watch a stand off between a Buzzard and a Hooded Crow
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| A very dark Buzzard |
We only missed the first 15 minutes of the Man U/ Crystal Palace game which we watched via SkyGo on my IPad. John invited us into the kitchen to watch with him, I refused as I can do something else as well in our room. We won 1-2 by the skin of our teeth via a late headed goal from Fellaini. Phew. We do miss Carrick who is out for the rest of the season.
Sunday May 10
To-day can be summed up by one word. Rain.
We'd ordered a late breakfast, it was gone 10 before we drove to the ferry area to have a look at the Sound of Iona. One Great Northern Diver, a few Gannets, Common Terns and Shags.
Sunday papers and Fidden next. A few Whimbrel amongst the sheep on the way to the camp site. Not raining hard yet, there was a kite flyer and a dog exercising family in the area, not good for birds. Two pairs of Eider, a couple of Ringed Plover and a small group of Dunlin and Ringed Plover.
We drove to the end of the road to-day, a very messy farm, Knockvelogen, where a walk begins. We were able to help a would be hiker, who couldn't make sense out of his leaflet, by consulting our SatNav as to which direction we were facing. We did find a group of about 30-40 Barnacle Geese, our first for Mull. On the return journey at least 40 black pinafored Golden Plover had dropped into the sheep field.
A conveniently placed passing place enabled me to try and photograph some Dunlin, the only photographs of the day. In the rain......
A small turnoff west to the six house settlement of Kintra, at the edge of a small bay, was our resting place to read the papers, do puzzles etc. before going on to Bunessan and a hot drink and a snack in The Bakehouse cafe. It's always been closed previously.
Some more reading at Uisken before returning for a short visit to Fidden and then Seaview..
Great, the rain stopped as we locked the car.
It should be better to-morrow.
Monday May 11
I'd finished writing this when the internet went down. It usually saves to draft. It didn't. I may get round to re-writing it, probably not to-night. I'll write to-day's first.
I did get round to it. It would have been interesting to compare the original with this version.
Birding is so weather dependent, it’s difficult not to obsess about the forecast. Iffy for this morning was the general consensus.The wind was due to rise to 42 mph and John was doubtful that the Iona ferry would run. Maybe first thing but not later. A couple at breakfast were hoping to walk there to-day.
We started off by driving down to look at the Sound, maybe the wind would have driven some birds in to shelter. Gannets and Common Terns in addition to the usual Shags and Cormorants, no divers nor auks.
By the time I’d got my camera ready. the flock of Barnacle Geese at Fidden had climbed out of the water. Very distant, yet a sunny and clear morning might make a photograph worthwhile. I had my 1.5 extender on my 300mm lens and they still looked like this........
After heavy cropping, like this.
A rain shower put paid to photographing the Golden Plover and Whimbrel.
The sea was building up nicely off the camp site. A few Atlantic Grey Seals were in danger of being engulfed by the seas breaking around their chosen rock. Not that they'd care.
We needed fuel, there are few pumps on Mull, two of them are between Fionnophort and Bunessan.As we drew up, there was an almighty drumroll of thunder directly overhead. No more, just the one. Blue sky and sunshine the way we’d come, dark leaden skies ahead.
Through Bunessan, there’s a lane leading up into the Scoor Estate, high in the mountains. We got part of the way up before deciding it was stupid to go on.
The drive round past Loch Beg and Pennyghael and on to Loch Scridain follows the rocky, seaweed clad edges beloved by otters. Pam drives whilst I scrutinise the shore and rocks.
No otters but some nice birds. A lovely summer plumaged Greenshank
Rock Pipit
and Great Northern Diver.
Another try at the Burg road, where we saw the three White-tailed Eagles on Saturday, was worth a go. We sat, happily watching House Martins swoop over the nearby pool, lambs gambolling in the field and Hooded Crows strutting about amongst them.Until.......Pam noticed an ewe in labour.Lying on her tummy, back legs spread wide,
part of the lamb showing, periodically writhing her head in the agony of giving birth. She moved into the verge and we left, couldn’t stop watching and hating the feelings of helplessness.
We tried to see the WT Eagle’s new nest site from a layby where a notice said ‘ strictly no parking, passing place only’. A sign which tells everyone that an eagle’s nest is nearby. Foolish. Neither could we find it.
On towards Loch na Kiel. The single track road gets even narrower, the passing places less frequent. When the sea comes into view, the road drops sharply with a series of hairpin bends, protected by metal crash barriers. The sea was awesome.Not massively rough but the strong wind blew the water scudding landwards in misty sheets. It was also strong enough to blow the falling off the cliffs, swollen streams from yesterday’s rain, back the way they’d come. Upside down waterfalls. All in brilliant sunshine and much warmer. Nowhere to stop and photograph.
Time to turn back and to check on the ewe. Hooded Crows are a menace to livestock.
Yes, she was still in the painful throes, now in a gully beside the field. What could we do? Was this normal? Fortunately a closed in quad bike came careering along the track. Pam waved him down and reported the sheep’s distress, pointing it out. At least we’d done something. When we got back, John said that he’d found three dead sheep whilst walking the dogs this morning. It’s been a hard winter for them.
Past Pennyghael stores there is a bridge over a small stream and a cottage, The Old Smithy, advertising ‘home baked food and good coffee’. Tempting. There are a few picnic tables on the grass opposite, we decided to go in to the calm. There are always ducks and chickens wandering the road outside, with the addition of two cats to-day.
The room looked like someone’s crowded dining room. Two people were sat at the small table in the window, we were sat at the table for eight which filled the rest of the room. The end wall had a china cabinet, the walls were almost completely filled with family photos, many of otters, framed birthday cards and photos of dogs.
Each set place had a mug plus a spoon stood in it. Our drinks came in different mugs. We were offered ‘cheese scone, lemon cake, chilli or soup’. Pam had a scone, I had the cake. A large man - husband as it turns out - delivered the food and then we had a visitation from Mrs. The ensuing monologue covered cleaning ladies, birthday cards, dogs, vacuum cleaners - she has 4 - and where were we staying. All very entertaining but I wouldn’t like to tell her anything I didn’t want repeating. Stunned, I walked outside to fondle the very affectionate cats whilst Pam paid.
Another visit to Fidden before turning in for the day. I managed a photo of Golden Plover in failing light.
The highlight was a pair of Ravens playing beautifully in the updraughts. Flying in tandem, landing seperately, cronking gently to each other and taking off again. Fascinating - until a third came along when they chased it off and disappeared.
Our breakfast couple made it to Iona, got absolutely drenched and managed to get a boat back.
Tuesday May 12
Breakfast eaten, the car packed, we said our grateful and fond goodbyes to John and Jane before setting off for Dervaig - in rain. They run a fantastic B and B. John is an exceptional front man, Jane is the behind the scenes thinker, ideas woman, computer admin. and cook. The TripAdviser reports are a joy to read.
We couldn't leave without a last look at Fidden. No sign of the Barnacles to-day, a field full of Golden Plover, a few Whimbrel, Ringed Plover, Lapwing, Eider and Shelduck. All looking rather soggy.
No point in stopping anywhere, the mountains were cloud covered, the rain a relentless sweeping mist. Grasspoint is low and worth a look. Three Cuckoos flew across in front of us, Willow Warblers sang their all weather wistful notes, nothing else could be bothered. Can they be blamed.....
A ferry must have come in. As we drove towards Craignure, the traffic became heavier, the cars in groups of three, the coaches as a foursome!
Unable to park at Craignure shop we tried Salen for papers. Nothing I wanted there, I had to buy a Sun ! And make my own hot chocolate using a kettle boiled out the back. Machine broken and the new one not unpacked yet.
We drank our hot chocolate on a mound overlooking The Sound of Mull north of Salen, past the even rustier hulks,the road hugs the coast here. We saw Minke Whales here last year. A few Grey Sals, two Mergansers, Greylag with ONE small offspring and Common Sandpiper.
Aros Park, a little south of Tobermory, can be good for passerines. Opening the window to listen asked for giant raindrops falling off the trees to wet my arm and the sill. A Blackcap was the only songster. In yhe car park area near the loch, Mistle and Song Thrushes collected food for their young. Both birds are much more numerous than at home.
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| Song Thrush |
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| Mistle Thrush |
Next plan was to explore the main car park from which our boat leaves in the morning. The information office there confirmed that the boat would be running and showed me where to queue. Looking forward to that.
About a quarter of a mile up the track to Loch Frisa, we parked in order to scan the ridge opposite. We only had to wait barely five minutes before the male Hen Harrier, legs dangling came hurrying along. The female rose fro her nest and a food pass took place before he flew directly off again. The female flew off too, the eggs must have hatched. Excellent. Such beautiful birds.
After a look at the Dervaig reedbed - the largest on the island - and the mouth of the river where it flows into Loch a Chumhainn where we had a pair of Mergansers, it was time to go to our B and B. The house is on a bluff overlooking the river and loch. A delighted Cathy greeted us with a hug before showing us to 'our' bedroom - we've never been in any other room. She yhen told us rhat the Springwatch nest behind the house had failed, Ravens had disturbed the White-tailed Eagles. BUT... another nest could be seen from our bedroom, from bed in fact. We trained my telescope on the area but there wasn't a bird present. Two chicks have hatched. It's been mostly dry and frequently sunny since mid afternoon. three days of rain in all but 2 weeks is not that bad really.Only one lasted all day.
Wednesday May 13
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| Tobermory, not as colourful as it used to be. Come back BBC |
The road to Tobermory from here is one of the steepest, narrowest single track and, badly maintained, in the island. It now has two sets of roadworks. Notices warning of 'road narrows' and 'single track traffic' are a joke. All I've seen the men do is roll out lengths of yellow wiring cover and roll it back in again - depending on the time of day.
As we drove into Ledaig car park, Tobermory, for the port, a glance uphill past the distillery showed Karl Chapman and group gazing into the stream. When he returned to the car park, he greeted us with a hug and they then joined us in the boat queue.
We didn't board until departure time, 9.30, as the bus , bringing the last 5 participants, was late.
Down the ramp, along the pontoon and onto the substantial looking ocean survey boat.
Top deck would be best for viewing but would catch the cold wind and was up an almost vertical set of stairs. Pam and I sat at the back of the small lower deck - until we were called into the cabin for the obligatory safety and science talk given by the driver James. The vessel is part of an ongoing Cetacean and Ocean survey project and there were three other very helpful, knowledgeable and personable guides plus a plankton expert. Downstairs we mostly had young Keira from Northern Ireland. Andy - in shorts - looked after upstairs but shouted down to us.
The first half hour was very quiet, the odd single Gannet only. The site of a White-railed Eagle's nest came into sight and an adult was sitting in the trees.
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| Can you see it? |
a couple of Puffins, a few Razorbills and three Black Guillemots. We were now encountering birds on the sea beside the boat, they soon fled though.
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| Here he goes |
Meanwhile, we were in deeper water having left the Sound of Mull. Skye to the north, Eigg and Rhum ahead. Most exciting for me was that we saw ever increasing numbers of Manx Shearwaters. At first, flying distantly, then rafts on the sea.
I kept my finger on the shutter and captured the following sequence of photographs.
Nearly 4 hours later, we turned for port. I was getting fed up with the amount of wallowing we'd done trying to make sure everyone saw the whale. I do not get seasick but this constant sideways roll was disagreeable. The boat hugged the shore more closely this time, we added Eider duck, Whimbrel, Common Seal, Grey Seal and an Otter to the list.
The plankton man had collected some during this stage. He then put some under a microscope and showed it to us on a TV screen where he could zoom in to the Photoplankton and Zooplankton beloved of Minkes. Fascinating. We saw minute Mussell babies, Nude Barnacle babies, bristleworms and other microscopic animals which make up the plankton.
This was a very good trip, I strongly recommend it. Tea and coffee available, snacks to buy and excellent staff.
At 3.30 we ate a meal (don't know what to call it) at the Blue Restaurant just outside town. No-one else there. Too late to do anything else, we were tired anyway, we made our slow way back to Dervaig, birding all the way. A Cuckoo and a Whinchat sitting on a wire were the best.
As requested, I phoned Arthur to confirm tomorrow's trip and found that he's not taking it. He's feeling rough and his wife Pam will run it. Should be interesting.
Thursday May 14
The other couple had left early to catch the first ferry from Oban, the breakfast room was all ours. The views from here are lovely, especially on such a beautiful morning.
One of the White Tailed Eagles was on the nest this morning, too distant to make out any chick movement.
Another couple also waited at the bridge for Pam Brown to arrive with four others on board. A full load but the van is roomy enough for all. Ensconced in the centre row, we set off down the glen to Salen.
I complained a lot last year about the utter devastation left by the seemingly haphazard logging, leaving stands of trees amongst stumps and the brash left behind. It looked even worse this year as the unprotected outside trees of the clumps were hit by the weather. Their closeness and the shallowness of their roots meant that many have uprooted and fallen, even across roads. Pam explained that all the trees on the island had been planted at the same time so needed to be harvested at the same time. This led to over production of wood, dropping prices and leaving Eagle nests in isolated clumps. Eagles do not like to nest at the edge of woods. One nest tree had blown over leaving the birds to re-locate. Hence the nest we can see from our bedroom, which is behind Pam and Arthur's farm.
The stumps and brash left is good habitat for small birds, and therefore attractive to raptors. A pine weevil moves in after the harvesting, making the area unsuitable for re-planting for five years, when the weevil will have moved on.
Not far down the glen we saw our first Golden Eagle soaring the mountain ridgetop. A very distant White-tailed Eagle dropped away almost as soon as it was seen. Looking through the fron windscreen, Pam had a male Hen Harrier which only showed for a very short time - and was only seen by her and Pam the driver.
The river mouth, where it enters the Sound of Mull at Salen, had three Goosanders, two pairs of Red-breasted Mergansers, Eider Duck and common Seals on rocks.
The Ladies loos at Salen were locked, the men went to theirs first and then the five other women took their turn in the Gents.
The road from Salen to Loch na Kiel is pretty flat, lined with deciduous trees, pasture containing sheep with gentle hills. One of the fields contained little dark brown Hebridean sheep. Both sexes have horns and the wool is particularly soft. The first REd Deer of the day also grazed. Pam remarked that they were all in poor condition. There's very little grass around as yet which will not be good for the pregnant hinds. The stags are still high up the mountains.
Part of the way along the shores of Loch na Kiel. there is a well known White-tailed Eagle nest. Pam does not stop in the big laybe for birders but further along where one can actually see the nest. Drinks and biscuits dispensed from the boot, we admired the male sitting in a tree away from the nest. Through Pam's scope, we took it in turns to view the female on the edge of the nest, the fluffy head of one chick clearly visible on the right. I stupidly took a photo - here's the result !
Towards the seaward side of the loch on a large bend, is Arthur's favourite Golden Eagle site and lunching place. Pam had instructions to get there by 12.30 as the eagle flies from 12.45 - 1.15.
We were parked by 12.30 and the Goldie was in the air above the ridge. Why? A woman and a man and their dogs were rounding up sheep very near the nest. Bad and good luck. At least we had a short view of our second bird for the day.
We stopped here for an hour and a half as it's also a good otter spot . Four members of the party had vever seen one and were desperate to do so. No luck to-day. Great Nortern Diver, Redshanks, Common Sandpiper and Merganser - all the usuals - kept us entertained.
Onwards and upwards.
Driving towards Ulva Ferry on such a magnificent day gave us fantastic views of mountains, lochs, islands and woods. We pass the Mitford Island where they had a holiday home and the crippled Unity Mitford lived out her last days. She was in love with Hitler and when the two countries went to war she attempted suicide, succeeding in crippling herself. They sent their laundry to Harrods in London. However long did that take.
Ulva ferry area for another unsuccessful otter search and the loos before driving on to Calgary Bay, noted for its white shell sand and its green and blue Caribbean coloured sea. Calgary in Canada is named after this tiny area.
The other side of Calgary is the little known and used track to Calliach Point. I love this area. Better in rough weather but we still added Guillemot, Gannet, Arctic Tern, Common Tern and yet another Great Northern Diver to the day list.
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| Distant misty views of Rhum, Eigg and Muck. |
A shepherd and his dogs made his way home along the lochside.
Last chance for an Otter. As we approached Dervaig, a car pulled in to the remaining parking slot. Oh bother. We parked the other side of the bridge and walked back. A young otter was expending an enormous amount of energy constantly diving, showing his head, sometimes his back, sometimes the tail. Ultra joy for all, especially the four who had it as their most wanted. We then had a second Otter perched on a rock to eat a fish. Scope views obtained.
Goodbyes and thanks made, we walked up the hill to our car and decided to try and find the Dervaig shop to buy some supper. Very surprisingly from the small windowless wall facing the narrow dead end road, the side entrance led us into a large and spacious, well stocked, shop. Four years ..... and we'd never found it.
An early departure for Skye in the morning.
Friday May 15 (15.5.15)
I'd almost finished packing the car by 7.00 breakfast time. Pam did a good job sorting last night. From the breakfast table, we watched 15 beautiful pure Rock Doves feeding on the grass outside, Goosanders on the river. As I got up to take photographs, a cat appeared out of the shrubbery and they flew away.
The two lads who came in for breakfast are salmon farm workers, not quite sure what they do....should have asked. They travel world wide for their work, newly back from China they have also been to Dubai. I wished them a good day as I left adding if that was possible on a working day. One replied ' it's more like play than work, I really enjoy it '.
Cathy has a pet lamb in a dog kennel at the moment, orphaned, she takes it for a walk on a lead. The spaniel next door keeps it company. Her brother owns all the land on her side of the loch where she keeps chickens and a few sheep. Her scrambled eggs are the best - and I'm not fond of eggs.
After a longer than planned and very entertaining chat with Cathy we missed a ferry at Fishnish and had to wait 40 mins until the 9.10. A very straight forward and dry run along Ardnamurchan to Ardgour where we only waited 5 minutes. Enough time to admire the adult Black Guillemots but not enough for photography.
It's a good road to Fort William and Morrisons to stock up with fuel and shopping. We had a short stop at the viewpoint for the Ben Nevis range, all the peaks still have snow but Nevis itself was lost in cloud. At 12.30 it started raining and continued to do so heavily all the way to Skye. After cossing the bridge, I'm sure there was some good scenery, all lost to us. I slept very little last night and spent much of the afternoon napping. Irresistibly, I couldn't keep awake. Pam drove in uninterrupted silence.
One stop in Broadford to view the bay, another at Aros Centre for a drink and cake, it was then time to go to our recommended B and B. We are not impressed. It's clean and adequate BUT. He didn't carry our case in. The room is small and the 'en suite' is across the hallway, still private he assured us. Not what we want for nocturnal visits.Still, it's only one night.
Early to bed and a little time to explore before tomorrow's ferry to North Uist from Uig which is a few miles up the road.
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