This Blog will be written in 3 sections, Highlands, Mull and Uist, so that all are consecutive dates, the newest at the bottom.
Thursday April 30
Only a little past schedule, due to having to clear the overnight frost off the windscreen etc., we left at 5.10 a.m. and made very good time to the A47 out of King’s Lynn - the roads were empty.
A beautiful start to the day, most of it was sunny, a pleasure to look at the fresh, green, newly open leaves against a blue sky, with enough cloud to make it interesting. We had three or four short sharp showers in total, the sun shining throughout.
We always have to stop at Cove to say hello to the bronze of fishermen’s families which adorns a memorial sign on the clifftop.
With several toilet, petrol and drink breaks, we were in Skateraw Bay for lunch, where there were the fewest birds we’ve ever seen here. One Curlew, several Eider, one Wheatear and a couple of Linnets and Meadow Pipits. One of the group of mini cottages on the approach lane, has added an Eagle Owl to its cages, in addition to the Snowies, since last year. To our surprise, the ever present House Sparrows had a half dozen Tree Sparrows perched in the same area.
Bass Rock and North Berwick’s rock edged sandy coastline is a must visit. The Rock gleaming white in the sun, thousands of Gannets, perched, flying around the rock and streaming by in steady undulating echelons.
Spectacular. Hundreds of Guillemots and probably other Auks were flying in to their nesting ledges,whilst the occasional Fulmar wheeled by, on a near rocky island, too frustratingly distant for positive identification of the other species. Pam saw our first Sandwich Tern whilst I was scoping the rocks.
On to Aberlady Bay where there was a pair of Mallard and a heap of Shelduck, we’ve always been disappointed here.
Longniddry Bents did not disappoint, without reaching last year’s exceptional standards. A group of Long-tailed Ducks, both Sandwich and Common Terns were the highlights. Edinburgh, visible across the firth, beckoned. Time to get to the Travelodge in Dunfermline and a rest, especially for the driver. We had to endure so many lengthy roadworks to-day. The 15 miles approaching Scotch Corner and the 9 miles of them near Newcastle, several other shorter ones too. Edinburgh is always a nightmare. Interesting to see the development of the Forth Road Bridge repacement . The supporting towers are nearing completion.
To make matters worse, when I checked my Travelodge booking form, there was no postcode! I used my IPhone to retrieve the details and we got here easily for 5.20.
The receptionist regaled us with tales of the snow, hail and thunder they’d had earlier!
Our room is on the ground floor and very near reception, no undue walking thank goodness. It’s been a long day.
Not sure yet which route we’ll take to Boat of Garten to-morrow.
Friday May 1
We both slept well and long last night, we didn’t leave until 9.10 on a cold yet sunny morning. The drive north along the M90 was lovely. I miss the mountains but, here, they are much more extensive than in my Welsh home, in an expansive view, much softer than further north - still majestic .It looks like early spring, daffodils in full bloom, soft green buds unfurling on the hawthorn and birches.
The first diversion was to Vane Farm on Loch Leven. Every bird is equally important on the first of the month. The Loch is very large, a haven for Pink-footed Geese in the winter, all departed by now. From a roadside gateway, we added Tree Sparrow, Mute Swan, Tufted Duck, Wigeon, Reed Bunting, Wheatear, Pied Wagtail, Swallow and a distant Buzzard perched on a post. Deciding not to visit the centre as it was pointless, Pam breakfasted in the well wooded car park whilst we birded. Mistle Thrush, Robin and Willow Warbler provided plenty of activity.
On to Perth and a reserve I haven’t visited since I retired. In my working days, time was short so, the journey to Carrbridge had to be as quick as possible. Edinburgh Dreghorn on Friday night and straight up the A9, calling at Loch o’ Lowes en route, on the Saturday.
I’d heard that the old female Osprey there had two barren years and then had not returned. Was there a replacement?
The reserve is several miles off the A9, through Dunkeld. The countryside is verdant and wooded, a well used and very hilly golf course alongside the lane.
As soon as I left the car, the trilling flight call of a Redpoll overhead was a delightful surprise. A short walk from the car park through a small wood, paying our entry fees at the small centre before looking at the feeding area outside. That’s new to me. Seats from which to view too. Great Spotted Woodpecker, Yellowhammer, Siskin, Coal Tits, Chaffinch, Blue Tits and a Pheasant bulked the list.
About time to make the short walk before climbing the steps up to the first of the hides giving views over the lock. The eye is immediately drawn to the untidy and enormous bundle of branches and twigs which make the nest, high in a tree on the far side of the water. All that could be seen of the female was the top of her head. Not sensible to even try and photograph it. I did though.
Gazing at a bunch of twigs, waiting for something to happen, can become tedious. Scanning the loch, we saw Great Crested Grebes, Goldeneye, Mallard and then a female Red Breasted Merganser passed below the hide.
Busy photographing her, I was alerted by clicking lenses to the fact that the male Osprey had returned, taking over nest duties. It was all very slick and I wasn’t, looking in time to see her glide away behind the trees. Better concentration needed !
Whilst the male made himself comfortable.... tail stuck in the air
Why is there always a loudly spoken local 'expert' having their duty break in the hide? Yesterday's was useful in that he was the first to spot a young Fallow Deer and its mother making their way through the reeds under the nest.
The further north we travelled along the A9, spring receded, leaving the snow coated mountains, leafless trees and icy cold of winter. A mountain desert. The odd shower too.
We left the A9 at Kingussie to take the back roads towards Aviemore. Somewhere along the way, we stopped to investigate a Pipit which turned out to be a good move. A beautiful female Grey Wagtail had a wash in the stream nearby, long tail maddeningly active when one is trying to take photos.
Getting out of the warm car and walking Broomhill Bridge was both achingly cold (6C+an arctic wind) and Dipperless. We only stayed a short while before retiring.
Always a favourite, Lochindorb was very quiet. Good views of testosterone laden Red Gouse strutting their stuff, Common Sandpipers, a Redshank and a Buzzard.
Craigowrie Cottage called as it was nearly 6 p.m. No, the door hadn’t been painted since last year, the inside was just as pleasant though. An hour of car unpacking, putting away food bought in Perth Tesco and sorting electrics before settling to the laptop and a meal.
I will add photos later, we plan an early rise for the 5.30 Capercaillie watch at Loch Garten.
Saturday May 2
Pam didn't set the alarm.
New plans, some sea watching. Via Lochindorb of course, the only birds present were Oystercatchers
and the second Osprey of the morning. The other was on the approach road from Carrbridge. Even more Red Grouse than yesterday. The Lochindorb Estate manages its grouse moors well. The heather looks short and healthy, with signs of the regular burn-off of older vegetation to produce healthy plants. Outside the estate, the heather is tall and brown.
There's a Common Gull breeding colony at the northern end of the road.
We made the decision to drive as far as Spey Bay and bird our way back west along the coast. That was the plan anyway.
The tide was at its height in Spey Bay, the river mouth an inland sea, waves rushing through the smallish opening. The Goosander were well spread, many flying about in small groups, only two asleep on the regular resting islands. This a regular haunt of this bird, mainly males, we always see them here in the spring. I don't know whether it's a non breeders dossing place or a rest on the journey. A small flock of Dunlin appeared from nowhere.
Pam then suggested that we go on to Portsoy as it was 'only' 25 miles further east. What a penance. The White-billed Diver had been seen a very long way out. One birder mooted that it moved much further out when the tide was high - the very opposite of what we'd thought (hoped). We found a distant Great Northern Diver, the lone bird on a choppy sea, a few Eider Duck and other unidentifiable birds way out on the horizon.
We haven't missed the White-billed for the last five years.
Alertred by their call, we looked for the Turnstone. About 20+ huddled in the nearby seaweed, so well camouflaged. A visiting Canadian from Alberta couldn't see them at all until I showed him in my scope. You count.
All asleep
My eyes were constantly streaming, making viewing almost impossible in the icy wind blowing straight in from the Arctic. Even the constant sun didn't do much to alleviate the big freeze. I retired to the car. We have never seen as few birds nor species here, nor at the next stop, Burghead. It's probably because we are at least a week later. I love seabirds so it's disappointing.
A Rock Pipit perched briefly, its tail blowing wildly, making its whole body teeter madly on the wire..
The last call was before shopping at Sainsbury's in Nairn was Findhorn Bay. More of the same - no birds on the sea apart from gulls. Where are the terns and auks? We did see three large groups of beached Grey Seals off the river mouth, hundreds in number.
Time for home and the penance of watching Man U lose to WBA on SkyGo on my IPad. Van Persie even managed to miss a penalty.
Bad weather is forecast for to-morrow. We'll see.
Sunday May 3
At 4C and raining, the morning did not encourage an early start. We started the day with papers and a hot chocolate from Boat of Garten P.O. at the end of the road. It's a Tardis. A single window and door entry expands into a far reaching shop, absolutely crammed with goodies of a wide variety. Garten Bridge did not have a Dipper to-day, only a pair of Goldeneye, the ever present Oystercatchers and a Common Sandpiper.
On to Nethy Bridge, where the Post Office has a Capercaillie weather vane, I want one. Taking the Tomintoul road and turning off for Dorback, the temperature dropped to 2C as we climbed on to the moorland. Unfarmed, apart from the piles of trash and heaps of tree trunks left over from last year's felling. Will it be cleared? The odd Red Grouse and Mistle Thrushes, 3 Fallow Deer and several pheasants braved the drizzle with us. A lone Whimbrel flew over.
A gate eventually prevents progress. There's a pull-off here where I braved the open window to scope the surrounding area, far and wide. Two Curlew flew past. As my hands became numbed
with cold, I withdrew into the cocoon of the car and Pam suggested that we move back down
the slope. I started to read to-day's sports paper... Pam scanned and gave a delighted call ' I've got some'. My scope was quickly retrieved from the back seat, cold hands forgotten. I scoped the wonderful sight of six lekking Black Grouse males. Fanned tails flashing white, feet stamping rhythmically, darting ceremonially at each other. No females present to admire the display, probably already nesting. Gradually one or two flew away and the show subsided. All at 10.35 a.m. So much for early starts. Well done Pam.
We could not see the area from anywhere else, Pam's choice of stopping place was the one and only viewing point. Brilliant.
Dulnain Bridge is only a few miles from Nethy. The watching layby had four fishermen's cars filling it! I could see their red coveralls disappearing upstream, frightening the Dippers and Grey Wagtails far away I reckon.
Good old Lochindorb beckoned. We always see Red Grouse along the road.
To-day there was a Curlew feeding in the wet heather, looking totally at home in this habitat.
Bingo. A Black-throated Diver appeared at the southern end of the loch. It was diving pretty constantly, travelling a long way under water. We followed it until it was lost to view. In the drizzle, the lochside was devoid of birds apart from a couple of Redshank. The very high water level doesn't help but at least it's not lapping over the road as it was two years ago. The water was much less choppy to-day.
Driving through Carrbridge without visiting Station Road is not an option, despite needing a comfort stop. The weather worsened as we reached the turning area. I've never wee'd in the wild with hail bouncing off my rear before.......
We feared that it was too late, but, about a dozen handsome, black bibbed adult, Golden Plover still remained. We've relied on this stopping off point for years. The hail stopped before we reached Tesco car park in Aviemore.
Glen Feshie and Uath Lochan for a late lunch. Pam stood outside to eat her barbecued chicken whilst I did the Telegraph General Knowledge crossword. No birds at all.
Maybe a look at Loch Garten bird feeders, mpiperonly a few miles from our cottage might produce a Crested Tit. No, they didn't. It was vmhe first ery quiet indeed as was the Centre - reported by some passing birders. Back to the cottage before 5 to-night as we have an early start and a long day ahead to-morrow. The forecast is reasonable but looks bad for Tuesday-Thursday so we decided to do our Dunnett Head via the Flow Country trip.
I shall look for the female Harlequin at Brora too - if I can find Clutie Burn.
Monday May 4
My favourite day out, various birding spots culminating in a visit to Dunnett Head. It had obviously rained overnight, there were some serious puddles on the road . It felt warmer though.
As we dropped down into Inverness, one of the best views, the Moray Firth, Kessock Bridge, Inverness and the ring of snow - clad mountains beyond. To-day, despite the sun, there must have been some rain somewhere as a rainbow garnished the view.
Embo is the first call. through a caravan site and down to the short, increasingly decrepit pier - only to find that its been barricaded off. A few Eider on the rocks and an empty sea sent us on our way back to the A9 along the shores of Dornoch Firth. A quick stop to check for waders and to admire the beached Seals and our first Hooded Crows before crossing the bridge for breakfast at The Mound. The latter was full of water, no mud for waders apart from Common Sandpiper. A few Wigeon swam at the back.
Where was this Burn at Brora? We found the south coast and its car park easily. The sea was fantastic, white-topped rollers crashing onto the rocks with unrelenting energy and power. No photograph can do it justice.
An old lady and her two dogs were returning from a walk to the south, where there was a headland with some decrepit buildings. It was Sputie Burn, not Clutie and that is the other side of the headland. Boris the Schnauzer had left a lot of sand on my trousers, too friendly by far but I didn't mind at all. We made the decision to press on rather than possibly waste a lot of time looking for somewhere we didn't know, nor its distance, nor whether the Harlequin Duck was present to-day. Too many variables during a long journey
Travelling north via Forsinard and the Flow Country means turning off at Helmsdale to take the inland route on a narrow road with passing places. The first section is scenic, following a rushing mountain river, in full spate to-day, brown foamed water thrown skywards by contact with rocks, tumbling over natural weirs, thundering inexorably onwards to the sea. Mountain streams tumble down to join the flow.
The slopes on both sides are clad with ancient, gnarled, lichen encrusted and, still leafless, oaks. Other areas are the dazzling yellow of gorse bushes. Very few birds to-day, apart from the ubiquitous Meadow Pipits. A few Mistle Thrushes and only six Wheatears and a single Osprey. We thoroughly enjoyed watching adult Stonechats feeding their demanding young.
The area before reaching Forsinard railway station is very barren. Peat moors, lochans, a few forestry plantations and no birds at all. Descending towards the coast, the land gradually becomes softer again with a few scattered houses. As we left the moors, a superb male Hen Harrier flew along the hillside giving us extensive views.
Dunnett Bay beckoned. What would we find to-day - it changes every year. Our first stop was at the small car park at the western end from which I scoped a raft of 150+ Long-tailed Ducks, the handsome males very obvious. Small rafts of Common Scoter, Guillemots, and Razorbills and at least 6 Great Northern Divers, a few Common and Sandwich Terns whetted the appetite. On to Castletown on the western shore with its ancient snmall harbour from which slate was exported. The whole harbour and jetties are built from slate. Just beyond, where the road stops, there is an area where we can park on top of the bank to seawatch. From here we added 8 Whimbrel, 6 Sanderling, one Purple Sandpiper, a few winter plumaged Red-throated Divers and some distant Gannets. As we were leaving, a flock of about 30 Arctic Terns rose, screaming, from a rocky headland before settling again.
Time to make for Dunnet Head itself, a 4 mile drive along a headland to the lighthouse and viewpoint at the end. St John's Loch, a small reserve at the start of the drive first though. It's noted for its colony of breeding Arctic Terns. No longer. It's become Black-headed Gull metropolis. The owners are aware of this and plans are afoot to change conditions so that the terns return. Sandwich Terns have increased though. We added Black-tailed Godwit. Coot (!!), Teal and Shoveller to the trip list.
Bathed in warm sunshine - the temperature reached 16C to-day - Dunnett Head looked lovely. After parking, we walked down to the small area from which one can view the sea far below. A large pool occupied most of the standing place. We are accustomed to seeing large rafts of auks at the bottom of the cliffs, the air busy with in-flying birds. At first look to-day nothing. Amazing. After assiduous scoping we found two Puffins, a few Gannets and Guillemots. The sea and air was full of Kittiwakes and Fulmars.
Suddenly, a Great Skua appeared above my head, immediately banking and flying away. I only managed one shot, finding it difficult to follow the bird and focus.
Pam lunched on the upper cliffs where I photographed some Primroses.
Straight down the A9 to Aviemore and Boat of Garten. A much shorter and faster route with some spectacular scenery, when the road hugs the clifftop before dropping steeply to a settlement and then, climbing again. Such a beautiful late afternoon, ending with a Red Kite south of the Tore roundabout.
Difficult to believe that the funicular notice in Aviemore yesterday said :
Strong winds
Heavy snow.
Closed.
We've put a moth trap out to-night.........we'll see if we catch anything.
Tuesday May 5
Nothing in the moth trap........too cold?
What to do on a day when bad weather is forecast? It started off dry but by the time that we'd driven to Aviemore for fuel, the rain had started . Not the best of weather to bird Findhorn, Raptors don't fly in rain, that's where we went though.
It's such a beautiful valley, one of my favourite places. I must sign the online petition at www.savestrathdearn.com to try and prevent a windfarm being built here. They're an abomination, sometimes known as bird mincers. They don't make economic sense either if what I read is true, that by the time they are past their best they haven't produced enough electricity to pay for their initial cost. Then they are abandoned as a permanent useless disfigurement. I'm really for green energy but not in this form.
These male lambs tried to shelter from the incessant light rain.....
We saw Mistle Thrushes, Wheatears, goats and a mouse - which ran across the road in front of us. Common Sandpipers were the only stream dwellers to-day.
We parked roadside a short distance from the end parking space, we get a more extensive view of the entire valley from here. We don't remember seeing patches of snow this low before.
The classic herds of Red Deer on the skyline of the crags tempted photography, not much else around anyway.
Giving up, we drove the Farr road towards Ruthven, heartened by occasional cessation of the persistent rain and a lightening of the sky. A total of nine soggy Red Grouse perched on roadside rails, sat in the middle of the road and flew from rock to rock, giving their getback bubbling call as they flew, rising into the air with bent wings before dropping like a stone. Entertaining. So was a glance at the Satnav. It showed a red circle - our position - in the middle of a blank screen.
As we left the moors, a sign appeared 'Road Closed'. But... two cars were waiting. A further sign said 'expect delays of up to 20 minutes'. We waited. 15 minutes later, a workman approached to inform us that they weren't opening until 3.00 - an hour away - but that there was a 5 mile diversion around the hill. The diversion took us along a very attractive one track road, through a lovely stretch of oak and birch woodland. We heard the song of a Redstart but failed to see it. The light rain of the morning had become much harder without ever being torrential.
Whilst waiting for a view of the redstart, I photographed some of the lichen clad trees and trunks.
The car park at Loch Ruthven was pretty full, enough room for one car though. Initially, I scoped from the car, in case a pair of grebes had returned to nest at this end. Tufted Ducks and a Little Grebe only.
Donning coats, walking shoes and a hat, we set off down the wet path towards the lake. I like men BUT......
Man 1
Walked towards us on crutches, one leg totally stiff. I felt kindly towards him, applauding his efforts. Until. His first question was 'Have you been here before'. Yes I said. He then proceeded to tell me how dangerous the path was and that I should look for the grebes from a small beach and..... how to tell the grebes from Tufted Duck. I thanked him politely and walked on.
We set up on the small beach a short way past the boathouse. No birds in sight even where Man 1 had told us to look. A Cuckoo called from across the loch. Pam returned to the car for my scope. I continued to scan through the murk and light rain. I even managed to ID some Tufted Duck....
Whilst sitting on a pointed rock (!) I set up my scope and found two very distant dark blobs. Pam sat in my place and continued to scan. I noticed two birds on the opposite side of the loch and asked Pam if she'd have a look at them. Man 2 appeared beside me and, after thinking I was talking to him (was his name Pam?) asked if I'd seen the grebes. I answered in the negative. The two birds I'd found actually were a pair of golden-headed Slavonian Grebes. Man 2's immediate reaction was to ask to use the scope and move towards it as Pam got up. I got in first ! He then asked again so I got up to allow him access. He then assured us that we were right in our identification! At least he said thank you nicely. He'd missed them last Saturday.
Back to the car, rather wet, to have our second meal of the day at 4.00.
The day was not a complete washout , we hope for some better weather to-morrow, when the morning should be dryer than the afternoon.
Wednesday May 6
We had to try I suppose. I don't enjoy the experience at all either. We arrived at Loch Garten for the Capercaillie watch at 6.10 a.m. - 40 minutes after it opened. Very confusing....
No-one at the entrance to collect money and pay an entrance fee
Only 20 of us in the Centre
No RSPB men using the cameras to try and find a bird. What's happening?
We loitered inside the doorway, the usual forest of tripod legs filling the space despite the lack of people. A nearby birder obviously had a bird in his scope and was giving instructions. He immediately offered Pam a look in his scope and then me. He is from Norfolk and recognised us. Brilliant, how lucky was that? Not good views, a black blob in a tree. Just as well we've seen a male Capercaillie before. Only about 6 people managed to see it.
We were back in the car by 7.05 after a search for Crested Tit and enjoying a great flying display from the male Osprey. His display is similar to other raptors in that he rose and then dropped with legs dangling before repeating the action whilst making pretty pathetic squeaky noises.
The early sun was already disappearing behind increasing cloud as we drove to Lochindorb. Apart from the usual squabbling, testosterone laden Red Grouse, Common Sandpiper and Meadow Pipits, the only bird of note was a perched Cuckoo. We saw a large group of Pipits explode into the air and looked for the perpetrator - the Cuckoo.
Dulnain Bridge parking lay-by was empty to-day. Still a lot of water in the rivers, no rocks for Dippers anywhere - apart from here. Pam saw a Goosander fly downstream, I found a male Grey Wagtail with a packed beak land on a fairly close rock. I took some photographs despite the poor light.
Obviously there was a nest nearby and both the male and female were becoming agitated, so we left.
Broomhill Bridge, via Nethy Bridge, is on the way back to Craigowrie Cottage. Again a huge amount of water where several pairs of Goldeneye kept chasing each other off, paddling madly against the current carrying them rapidly downstream, before flying upriver again. Frustrating, as I couldn't forecast their movements but I got lucky with a few random shots.
A large number of Sand Martins swooping about must live somewhere. I eventually traced them to a sandy bank in the far corner.
Via the cottage to use the loo and Boat Post Office for papers and a hot chocolate, we drove to Abernethy Forest Lodge. Very little blue sky now. The forecast 'afternoon rain' arrived at 11.35, as we were driving the incredibly pot-holed road to Forest Lodge. We waited for 20 minutes but it was obvious that it was set in. Should we walk and get wet? Was there any hope of seeing Crested Tit in the rain? Probably not was the decision. Too early to finish for the day, despite the early start. Maybe it would be better at the coast.
Inverness was shrouded in mist and rain, Alturlie no better. The tide was well in, the foraging Hooded Crows and Grey Heons not in their usual abundance on the beach. Two pairs Of Red Breasted Mergansers and a Cormorant on the sea, Hoodies, Rooks and Jackdaws on the inland meadow, Redshank, Whimbrel and Wheatears on the tideline. I haven't seen six Song Thrushes collecting food in the same meadow since Scilly.
A male Yellowhammer joined them.
After re-fuelling the car at Tesco, we drove home to do a load of washing and wash hair.
It's now 6.30 and the sun is shining, still the odd spatter on the windows.
Thursday May 7
The day started bright and sunny. At last, a trip up Cairngorm was a possibility. The last stop at the Post Office for papers and a hot chocolate, it will not be open when we leave to-morrow. I've become very fond of the village and the shop. Apart from our cottage, the road in which we live is lined by large, mostly luxurious houses, ours must have been a servant's quarters for Craigowrie House which lies up a long drive behind the cottage. We love the cottage too.
About 200 metres from the Cairngorm funicular car park, Pam came to an abrupt halt. She'd spotted a male Ring Ousel on the verge her side of the road. It was unperturbed by passing cars, merely moving further into the verge. Perfect photographic opportunity, especially for Pam, which makes a change, she normally makes sure I have the best views. It was so close that I had to semi stand in my seat in order to see it, whilst trying to keep my camera still. Not brilliant for the knees! I managed a few good shots.
Pam's are brilliant. Well done. These are all mine.
I'd forgotten that when the skiing stopped, the first train was not until 10.00. Despite the Ousel and taking our time to kit up, we still had to wait 10 minutes for the train to leave. The last snow activity was last Monday, but they're hoping to open again this weekend as long as the weather stays cold.
As always, the trip up was spent scanning for birds, Red Grouse was the only one seen.
Opening the door to the viewing platform we were first confronted by packed, hard snow. The slope down to the viewing area had been cleared, the rest was lethal. Waw, as we left the door area, the strong wind hit me in the face like a blast from a deep freeze. My eyes watered, my nose ran - and so did I. No way could I stay out there. It was only 2C in the car park, goodness only knows what it was up here at 3,600 feet, combined with the wind chill.
Scanning from the Ptarmigan restaurant windows was the only option. An hour's scanning failed to find any birds at all. Luckily, as we first sat down, a Snow Bunting flew onto the ground close by for a few seconds, never to be seen again. Pam used the scope whilst I looked through all the other windows. No luck, the first time ever that we've failed up here.
We caught the 11.40 train down. The driver was a lovely man, and very informative. He told us that to-day was the first day he hadn't seen Ptarmigan on the way up. Hm. It was also the first day this week that there had been a view from the top. He also sees Mountain Hare and , once, a Water Vole. Must have been a very hardy one. Where there was no snow to-day there was heavy frost.
I took some photographs through the funicular windows with my pocket-sized Canon on the way down. The driver told us that funicular comes from the latin for rope.
During the skiing season, the trains start earlier, run every 10 mnutes instead of 20 and take 3 minutes less than our 8 to make the journey. 120 passengers max seems a trifle sardine like for the small carriage. Two more Ring Ousels flew across the car park as we drove off.
Sometime in the journey, I had my window open so that I could listen, and a flurry of minute hailstones landed in my lap. Where did they come from. I know, the sky !
Pam made her annual pilgrimage to the Reindeer Centre to ask after her adopted Strudel whilst I did a puzzle.
The entrances to the old Crested Tit watch place, Mhor Mhor, have been blocked off, the area is now overgrown with room for one car at the entrance. We tried, unsuccessfully for Crested Tit. They are so difficult at this season, nesting, not calling much and in the top canopies. In the Autumn and winter they are readily seen at bird feeding stations such as Loch Garten RSPB.
As we left Coylum Bridge, a Red Squirrel lay in the middle of the road. I quickly photographed it through the tinted and very sloping front windscreen before it ran off, straight up a tree. Was the road warm?
Maybe Loch an Eilein would turn up trumps. No, it didn't. We spent a bit of time watching a feeding area in the car park where I photographed a Chaffinch, the most numerous passerine bird in Scotland I think.
After a loo and shop visit where Pam bought some post cards at last - and I bought some unusual earrings - we tried Uath Lochan. No luck there either.
The other most frequently heard bird is the Willow Warbler.
Last resort was the track from Loch Garten car park through the woods beside the loch, leading to Loch Mallochie. We walked the length of Loch garten until we could see Mallochie without much luck. We heard a Crested Tit but failed to see one. We'd really tried to-day, for the first time I know. I'll blame the weather.......
Time to get back to the cottage and pack before an early start for Mull in the morning. We've loved our time here, despite the weather not being what we would choose. It wasn't that bad but not good birding conditions. We must also return to our earlier dates next year.
It's absolute bliss not having to clean the cottage before departure.
Thursday April 30
Only a little past schedule, due to having to clear the overnight frost off the windscreen etc., we left at 5.10 a.m. and made very good time to the A47 out of King’s Lynn - the roads were empty.
A beautiful start to the day, most of it was sunny, a pleasure to look at the fresh, green, newly open leaves against a blue sky, with enough cloud to make it interesting. We had three or four short sharp showers in total, the sun shining throughout.
We always have to stop at Cove to say hello to the bronze of fishermen’s families which adorns a memorial sign on the clifftop.
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| Pam's photos - above and below |
With several toilet, petrol and drink breaks, we were in Skateraw Bay for lunch, where there were the fewest birds we’ve ever seen here. One Curlew, several Eider, one Wheatear and a couple of Linnets and Meadow Pipits. One of the group of mini cottages on the approach lane, has added an Eagle Owl to its cages, in addition to the Snowies, since last year. To our surprise, the ever present House Sparrows had a half dozen Tree Sparrows perched in the same area.
Bass Rock and North Berwick’s rock edged sandy coastline is a must visit. The Rock gleaming white in the sun, thousands of Gannets, perched, flying around the rock and streaming by in steady undulating echelons.
On to Aberlady Bay where there was a pair of Mallard and a heap of Shelduck, we’ve always been disappointed here.
Longniddry Bents did not disappoint, without reaching last year’s exceptional standards. A group of Long-tailed Ducks, both Sandwich and Common Terns were the highlights. Edinburgh, visible across the firth, beckoned. Time to get to the Travelodge in Dunfermline and a rest, especially for the driver. We had to endure so many lengthy roadworks to-day. The 15 miles approaching Scotch Corner and the 9 miles of them near Newcastle, several other shorter ones too. Edinburgh is always a nightmare. Interesting to see the development of the Forth Road Bridge repacement . The supporting towers are nearing completion.
To make matters worse, when I checked my Travelodge booking form, there was no postcode! I used my IPhone to retrieve the details and we got here easily for 5.20.
The receptionist regaled us with tales of the snow, hail and thunder they’d had earlier!
Our room is on the ground floor and very near reception, no undue walking thank goodness. It’s been a long day.
Not sure yet which route we’ll take to Boat of Garten to-morrow.
Friday May 1
We both slept well and long last night, we didn’t leave until 9.10 on a cold yet sunny morning. The drive north along the M90 was lovely. I miss the mountains but, here, they are much more extensive than in my Welsh home, in an expansive view, much softer than further north - still majestic .It looks like early spring, daffodils in full bloom, soft green buds unfurling on the hawthorn and birches.
The first diversion was to Vane Farm on Loch Leven. Every bird is equally important on the first of the month. The Loch is very large, a haven for Pink-footed Geese in the winter, all departed by now. From a roadside gateway, we added Tree Sparrow, Mute Swan, Tufted Duck, Wigeon, Reed Bunting, Wheatear, Pied Wagtail, Swallow and a distant Buzzard perched on a post. Deciding not to visit the centre as it was pointless, Pam breakfasted in the well wooded car park whilst we birded. Mistle Thrush, Robin and Willow Warbler provided plenty of activity.
On to Perth and a reserve I haven’t visited since I retired. In my working days, time was short so, the journey to Carrbridge had to be as quick as possible. Edinburgh Dreghorn on Friday night and straight up the A9, calling at Loch o’ Lowes en route, on the Saturday.
I’d heard that the old female Osprey there had two barren years and then had not returned. Was there a replacement?
The reserve is several miles off the A9, through Dunkeld. The countryside is verdant and wooded, a well used and very hilly golf course alongside the lane.
As soon as I left the car, the trilling flight call of a Redpoll overhead was a delightful surprise. A short walk from the car park through a small wood, paying our entry fees at the small centre before looking at the feeding area outside. That’s new to me. Seats from which to view too. Great Spotted Woodpecker, Yellowhammer, Siskin, Coal Tits, Chaffinch, Blue Tits and a Pheasant bulked the list.
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| Coal Tit |
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| Yellowhammer - male |
About time to make the short walk before climbing the steps up to the first of the hides giving views over the lock. The eye is immediately drawn to the untidy and enormous bundle of branches and twigs which make the nest, high in a tree on the far side of the water. All that could be seen of the female was the top of her head. Not sensible to even try and photograph it. I did though.
Gazing at a bunch of twigs, waiting for something to happen, can become tedious. Scanning the loch, we saw Great Crested Grebes, Goldeneye, Mallard and then a female Red Breasted Merganser passed below the hide.
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| Red breasted Merganser |
Whilst the male made himself comfortable.... tail stuck in the air
Why is there always a loudly spoken local 'expert' having their duty break in the hide? Yesterday's was useful in that he was the first to spot a young Fallow Deer and its mother making their way through the reeds under the nest.
The further north we travelled along the A9, spring receded, leaving the snow coated mountains, leafless trees and icy cold of winter. A mountain desert. The odd shower too.
We left the A9 at Kingussie to take the back roads towards Aviemore. Somewhere along the way, we stopped to investigate a Pipit which turned out to be a good move. A beautiful female Grey Wagtail had a wash in the stream nearby, long tail maddeningly active when one is trying to take photos.
Getting out of the warm car and walking Broomhill Bridge was both achingly cold (6C+an arctic wind) and Dipperless. We only stayed a short while before retiring.
Always a favourite, Lochindorb was very quiet. Good views of testosterone laden Red Gouse strutting their stuff, Common Sandpipers, a Redshank and a Buzzard.
Craigowrie Cottage called as it was nearly 6 p.m. No, the door hadn’t been painted since last year, the inside was just as pleasant though. An hour of car unpacking, putting away food bought in Perth Tesco and sorting electrics before settling to the laptop and a meal.
I will add photos later, we plan an early rise for the 5.30 Capercaillie watch at Loch Garten.
Saturday May 2
Pam didn't set the alarm.
New plans, some sea watching. Via Lochindorb of course, the only birds present were Oystercatchers
and the second Osprey of the morning. The other was on the approach road from Carrbridge. Even more Red Grouse than yesterday. The Lochindorb Estate manages its grouse moors well. The heather looks short and healthy, with signs of the regular burn-off of older vegetation to produce healthy plants. Outside the estate, the heather is tall and brown.
There's a Common Gull breeding colony at the northern end of the road.
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| Whilst the female is sitting, the male keeps watch - this one, from a distance |
The tide was at its height in Spey Bay, the river mouth an inland sea, waves rushing through the smallish opening. The Goosander were well spread, many flying about in small groups, only two asleep on the regular resting islands. This a regular haunt of this bird, mainly males, we always see them here in the spring. I don't know whether it's a non breeders dossing place or a rest on the journey. A small flock of Dunlin appeared from nowhere.
Pam then suggested that we go on to Portsoy as it was 'only' 25 miles further east. What a penance. The White-billed Diver had been seen a very long way out. One birder mooted that it moved much further out when the tide was high - the very opposite of what we'd thought (hoped). We found a distant Great Northern Diver, the lone bird on a choppy sea, a few Eider Duck and other unidentifiable birds way out on the horizon.
Alertred by their call, we looked for the Turnstone. About 20+ huddled in the nearby seaweed, so well camouflaged. A visiting Canadian from Alberta couldn't see them at all until I showed him in my scope. You count.
All asleep
My eyes were constantly streaming, making viewing almost impossible in the icy wind blowing straight in from the Arctic. Even the constant sun didn't do much to alleviate the big freeze. I retired to the car. We have never seen as few birds nor species here, nor at the next stop, Burghead. It's probably because we are at least a week later. I love seabirds so it's disappointing.
A Rock Pipit perched briefly, its tail blowing wildly, making its whole body teeter madly on the wire..
The last call was before shopping at Sainsbury's in Nairn was Findhorn Bay. More of the same - no birds on the sea apart from gulls. Where are the terns and auks? We did see three large groups of beached Grey Seals off the river mouth, hundreds in number.
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| Pam's photo |
Bad weather is forecast for to-morrow. We'll see.
Sunday May 3
At 4C and raining, the morning did not encourage an early start. We started the day with papers and a hot chocolate from Boat of Garten P.O. at the end of the road. It's a Tardis. A single window and door entry expands into a far reaching shop, absolutely crammed with goodies of a wide variety. Garten Bridge did not have a Dipper to-day, only a pair of Goldeneye, the ever present Oystercatchers and a Common Sandpiper.
On to Nethy Bridge, where the Post Office has a Capercaillie weather vane, I want one. Taking the Tomintoul road and turning off for Dorback, the temperature dropped to 2C as we climbed on to the moorland. Unfarmed, apart from the piles of trash and heaps of tree trunks left over from last year's felling. Will it be cleared? The odd Red Grouse and Mistle Thrushes, 3 Fallow Deer and several pheasants braved the drizzle with us. A lone Whimbrel flew over.
A gate eventually prevents progress. There's a pull-off here where I braved the open window to scope the surrounding area, far and wide. Two Curlew flew past. As my hands became numbed
with cold, I withdrew into the cocoon of the car and Pam suggested that we move back down
the slope. I started to read to-day's sports paper... Pam scanned and gave a delighted call ' I've got some'. My scope was quickly retrieved from the back seat, cold hands forgotten. I scoped the wonderful sight of six lekking Black Grouse males. Fanned tails flashing white, feet stamping rhythmically, darting ceremonially at each other. No females present to admire the display, probably already nesting. Gradually one or two flew away and the show subsided. All at 10.35 a.m. So much for early starts. Well done Pam.
We could not see the area from anywhere else, Pam's choice of stopping place was the one and only viewing point. Brilliant.
Dulnain Bridge is only a few miles from Nethy. The watching layby had four fishermen's cars filling it! I could see their red coveralls disappearing upstream, frightening the Dippers and Grey Wagtails far away I reckon.
Good old Lochindorb beckoned. We always see Red Grouse along the road.
To-day there was a Curlew feeding in the wet heather, looking totally at home in this habitat.
Bingo. A Black-throated Diver appeared at the southern end of the loch. It was diving pretty constantly, travelling a long way under water. We followed it until it was lost to view. In the drizzle, the lochside was devoid of birds apart from a couple of Redshank. The very high water level doesn't help but at least it's not lapping over the road as it was two years ago. The water was much less choppy to-day.
Driving through Carrbridge without visiting Station Road is not an option, despite needing a comfort stop. The weather worsened as we reached the turning area. I've never wee'd in the wild with hail bouncing off my rear before.......
We feared that it was too late, but, about a dozen handsome, black bibbed adult, Golden Plover still remained. We've relied on this stopping off point for years. The hail stopped before we reached Tesco car park in Aviemore.
Glen Feshie and Uath Lochan for a late lunch. Pam stood outside to eat her barbecued chicken whilst I did the Telegraph General Knowledge crossword. No birds at all.
Maybe a look at Loch Garten bird feeders, mpiperonly a few miles from our cottage might produce a Crested Tit. No, they didn't. It was vmhe first ery quiet indeed as was the Centre - reported by some passing birders. Back to the cottage before 5 to-night as we have an early start and a long day ahead to-morrow. The forecast is reasonable but looks bad for Tuesday-Thursday so we decided to do our Dunnett Head via the Flow Country trip.
I shall look for the female Harlequin at Brora too - if I can find Clutie Burn.
Monday May 4
My favourite day out, various birding spots culminating in a visit to Dunnett Head. It had obviously rained overnight, there were some serious puddles on the road . It felt warmer though.
As we dropped down into Inverness, one of the best views, the Moray Firth, Kessock Bridge, Inverness and the ring of snow - clad mountains beyond. To-day, despite the sun, there must have been some rain somewhere as a rainbow garnished the view.
Embo is the first call. through a caravan site and down to the short, increasingly decrepit pier - only to find that its been barricaded off. A few Eider on the rocks and an empty sea sent us on our way back to the A9 along the shores of Dornoch Firth. A quick stop to check for waders and to admire the beached Seals and our first Hooded Crows before crossing the bridge for breakfast at The Mound. The latter was full of water, no mud for waders apart from Common Sandpiper. A few Wigeon swam at the back.
Where was this Burn at Brora? We found the south coast and its car park easily. The sea was fantastic, white-topped rollers crashing onto the rocks with unrelenting energy and power. No photograph can do it justice.
An old lady and her two dogs were returning from a walk to the south, where there was a headland with some decrepit buildings. It was Sputie Burn, not Clutie and that is the other side of the headland. Boris the Schnauzer had left a lot of sand on my trousers, too friendly by far but I didn't mind at all. We made the decision to press on rather than possibly waste a lot of time looking for somewhere we didn't know, nor its distance, nor whether the Harlequin Duck was present to-day. Too many variables during a long journey
Travelling north via Forsinard and the Flow Country means turning off at Helmsdale to take the inland route on a narrow road with passing places. The first section is scenic, following a rushing mountain river, in full spate to-day, brown foamed water thrown skywards by contact with rocks, tumbling over natural weirs, thundering inexorably onwards to the sea. Mountain streams tumble down to join the flow.
The slopes on both sides are clad with ancient, gnarled, lichen encrusted and, still leafless, oaks. Other areas are the dazzling yellow of gorse bushes. Very few birds to-day, apart from the ubiquitous Meadow Pipits. A few Mistle Thrushes and only six Wheatears and a single Osprey. We thoroughly enjoyed watching adult Stonechats feeding their demanding young.
The area before reaching Forsinard railway station is very barren. Peat moors, lochans, a few forestry plantations and no birds at all. Descending towards the coast, the land gradually becomes softer again with a few scattered houses. As we left the moors, a superb male Hen Harrier flew along the hillside giving us extensive views.
Dunnett Bay beckoned. What would we find to-day - it changes every year. Our first stop was at the small car park at the western end from which I scoped a raft of 150+ Long-tailed Ducks, the handsome males very obvious. Small rafts of Common Scoter, Guillemots, and Razorbills and at least 6 Great Northern Divers, a few Common and Sandwich Terns whetted the appetite. On to Castletown on the western shore with its ancient snmall harbour from which slate was exported. The whole harbour and jetties are built from slate. Just beyond, where the road stops, there is an area where we can park on top of the bank to seawatch. From here we added 8 Whimbrel, 6 Sanderling, one Purple Sandpiper, a few winter plumaged Red-throated Divers and some distant Gannets. As we were leaving, a flock of about 30 Arctic Terns rose, screaming, from a rocky headland before settling again.
Time to make for Dunnet Head itself, a 4 mile drive along a headland to the lighthouse and viewpoint at the end. St John's Loch, a small reserve at the start of the drive first though. It's noted for its colony of breeding Arctic Terns. No longer. It's become Black-headed Gull metropolis. The owners are aware of this and plans are afoot to change conditions so that the terns return. Sandwich Terns have increased though. We added Black-tailed Godwit. Coot (!!), Teal and Shoveller to the trip list.
Bathed in warm sunshine - the temperature reached 16C to-day - Dunnett Head looked lovely. After parking, we walked down to the small area from which one can view the sea far below. A large pool occupied most of the standing place. We are accustomed to seeing large rafts of auks at the bottom of the cliffs, the air busy with in-flying birds. At first look to-day nothing. Amazing. After assiduous scoping we found two Puffins, a few Gannets and Guillemots. The sea and air was full of Kittiwakes and Fulmars.
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| Kittiwakes |
Pam lunched on the upper cliffs where I photographed some Primroses.
Straight down the A9 to Aviemore and Boat of Garten. A much shorter and faster route with some spectacular scenery, when the road hugs the clifftop before dropping steeply to a settlement and then, climbing again. Such a beautiful late afternoon, ending with a Red Kite south of the Tore roundabout.
Difficult to believe that the funicular notice in Aviemore yesterday said :
Strong winds
Heavy snow.
Closed.
We've put a moth trap out to-night.........we'll see if we catch anything.
Tuesday May 5
Nothing in the moth trap........too cold?
What to do on a day when bad weather is forecast? It started off dry but by the time that we'd driven to Aviemore for fuel, the rain had started . Not the best of weather to bird Findhorn, Raptors don't fly in rain, that's where we went though.
It's such a beautiful valley, one of my favourite places. I must sign the online petition at www.savestrathdearn.com to try and prevent a windfarm being built here. They're an abomination, sometimes known as bird mincers. They don't make economic sense either if what I read is true, that by the time they are past their best they haven't produced enough electricity to pay for their initial cost. Then they are abandoned as a permanent useless disfigurement. I'm really for green energy but not in this form.
These male lambs tried to shelter from the incessant light rain.....
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| Incipient horns showing already |
We parked roadside a short distance from the end parking space, we get a more extensive view of the entire valley from here. We don't remember seeing patches of snow this low before.
The classic herds of Red Deer on the skyline of the crags tempted photography, not much else around anyway.
Giving up, we drove the Farr road towards Ruthven, heartened by occasional cessation of the persistent rain and a lightening of the sky. A total of nine soggy Red Grouse perched on roadside rails, sat in the middle of the road and flew from rock to rock, giving their getback bubbling call as they flew, rising into the air with bent wings before dropping like a stone. Entertaining. So was a glance at the Satnav. It showed a red circle - our position - in the middle of a blank screen.
As we left the moors, a sign appeared 'Road Closed'. But... two cars were waiting. A further sign said 'expect delays of up to 20 minutes'. We waited. 15 minutes later, a workman approached to inform us that they weren't opening until 3.00 - an hour away - but that there was a 5 mile diversion around the hill. The diversion took us along a very attractive one track road, through a lovely stretch of oak and birch woodland. We heard the song of a Redstart but failed to see it. The light rain of the morning had become much harder without ever being torrential.
Whilst waiting for a view of the redstart, I photographed some of the lichen clad trees and trunks.
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| Looks like Spanish Moss |
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| Bracket Fungus, looks like a horse's hoof |
Donning coats, walking shoes and a hat, we set off down the wet path towards the lake. I like men BUT......
Man 1
Walked towards us on crutches, one leg totally stiff. I felt kindly towards him, applauding his efforts. Until. His first question was 'Have you been here before'. Yes I said. He then proceeded to tell me how dangerous the path was and that I should look for the grebes from a small beach and..... how to tell the grebes from Tufted Duck. I thanked him politely and walked on.
We set up on the small beach a short way past the boathouse. No birds in sight even where Man 1 had told us to look. A Cuckoo called from across the loch. Pam returned to the car for my scope. I continued to scan through the murk and light rain. I even managed to ID some Tufted Duck....
Whilst sitting on a pointed rock (!) I set up my scope and found two very distant dark blobs. Pam sat in my place and continued to scan. I noticed two birds on the opposite side of the loch and asked Pam if she'd have a look at them. Man 2 appeared beside me and, after thinking I was talking to him (was his name Pam?) asked if I'd seen the grebes. I answered in the negative. The two birds I'd found actually were a pair of golden-headed Slavonian Grebes. Man 2's immediate reaction was to ask to use the scope and move towards it as Pam got up. I got in first ! He then asked again so I got up to allow him access. He then assured us that we were right in our identification! At least he said thank you nicely. He'd missed them last Saturday.
Back to the car, rather wet, to have our second meal of the day at 4.00.
The day was not a complete washout , we hope for some better weather to-morrow, when the morning should be dryer than the afternoon.
Wednesday May 6
We had to try I suppose. I don't enjoy the experience at all either. We arrived at Loch Garten for the Capercaillie watch at 6.10 a.m. - 40 minutes after it opened. Very confusing....
No-one at the entrance to collect money and pay an entrance fee
Only 20 of us in the Centre
No RSPB men using the cameras to try and find a bird. What's happening?
We loitered inside the doorway, the usual forest of tripod legs filling the space despite the lack of people. A nearby birder obviously had a bird in his scope and was giving instructions. He immediately offered Pam a look in his scope and then me. He is from Norfolk and recognised us. Brilliant, how lucky was that? Not good views, a black blob in a tree. Just as well we've seen a male Capercaillie before. Only about 6 people managed to see it.
We were back in the car by 7.05 after a search for Crested Tit and enjoying a great flying display from the male Osprey. His display is similar to other raptors in that he rose and then dropped with legs dangling before repeating the action whilst making pretty pathetic squeaky noises.
The early sun was already disappearing behind increasing cloud as we drove to Lochindorb. Apart from the usual squabbling, testosterone laden Red Grouse, Common Sandpiper and Meadow Pipits, the only bird of note was a perched Cuckoo. We saw a large group of Pipits explode into the air and looked for the perpetrator - the Cuckoo.
Dulnain Bridge parking lay-by was empty to-day. Still a lot of water in the rivers, no rocks for Dippers anywhere - apart from here. Pam saw a Goosander fly downstream, I found a male Grey Wagtail with a packed beak land on a fairly close rock. I took some photographs despite the poor light.
Obviously there was a nest nearby and both the male and female were becoming agitated, so we left.
Broomhill Bridge, via Nethy Bridge, is on the way back to Craigowrie Cottage. Again a huge amount of water where several pairs of Goldeneye kept chasing each other off, paddling madly against the current carrying them rapidly downstream, before flying upriver again. Frustrating, as I couldn't forecast their movements but I got lucky with a few random shots.
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| Female Goldeneye with weed |
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| Female Goldeneye , landing carriage out. |
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| Male Goldeneye take-off |
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| Flying upriver |
Via the cottage to use the loo and Boat Post Office for papers and a hot chocolate, we drove to Abernethy Forest Lodge. Very little blue sky now. The forecast 'afternoon rain' arrived at 11.35, as we were driving the incredibly pot-holed road to Forest Lodge. We waited for 20 minutes but it was obvious that it was set in. Should we walk and get wet? Was there any hope of seeing Crested Tit in the rain? Probably not was the decision. Too early to finish for the day, despite the early start. Maybe it would be better at the coast.
Inverness was shrouded in mist and rain, Alturlie no better. The tide was well in, the foraging Hooded Crows and Grey Heons not in their usual abundance on the beach. Two pairs Of Red Breasted Mergansers and a Cormorant on the sea, Hoodies, Rooks and Jackdaws on the inland meadow, Redshank, Whimbrel and Wheatears on the tideline. I haven't seen six Song Thrushes collecting food in the same meadow since Scilly.
After re-fuelling the car at Tesco, we drove home to do a load of washing and wash hair.
It's now 6.30 and the sun is shining, still the odd spatter on the windows.
Thursday May 7
The day started bright and sunny. At last, a trip up Cairngorm was a possibility. The last stop at the Post Office for papers and a hot chocolate, it will not be open when we leave to-morrow. I've become very fond of the village and the shop. Apart from our cottage, the road in which we live is lined by large, mostly luxurious houses, ours must have been a servant's quarters for Craigowrie House which lies up a long drive behind the cottage. We love the cottage too.
About 200 metres from the Cairngorm funicular car park, Pam came to an abrupt halt. She'd spotted a male Ring Ousel on the verge her side of the road. It was unperturbed by passing cars, merely moving further into the verge. Perfect photographic opportunity, especially for Pam, which makes a change, she normally makes sure I have the best views. It was so close that I had to semi stand in my seat in order to see it, whilst trying to keep my camera still. Not brilliant for the knees! I managed a few good shots.
Pam's are brilliant. Well done. These are all mine.
I'd forgotten that when the skiing stopped, the first train was not until 10.00. Despite the Ousel and taking our time to kit up, we still had to wait 10 minutes for the train to leave. The last snow activity was last Monday, but they're hoping to open again this weekend as long as the weather stays cold.
As always, the trip up was spent scanning for birds, Red Grouse was the only one seen.
Opening the door to the viewing platform we were first confronted by packed, hard snow. The slope down to the viewing area had been cleared, the rest was lethal. Waw, as we left the door area, the strong wind hit me in the face like a blast from a deep freeze. My eyes watered, my nose ran - and so did I. No way could I stay out there. It was only 2C in the car park, goodness only knows what it was up here at 3,600 feet, combined with the wind chill.
Scanning from the Ptarmigan restaurant windows was the only option. An hour's scanning failed to find any birds at all. Luckily, as we first sat down, a Snow Bunting flew onto the ground close by for a few seconds, never to be seen again. Pam used the scope whilst I looked through all the other windows. No luck, the first time ever that we've failed up here.
We caught the 11.40 train down. The driver was a lovely man, and very informative. He told us that to-day was the first day he hadn't seen Ptarmigan on the way up. Hm. It was also the first day this week that there had been a view from the top. He also sees Mountain Hare and , once, a Water Vole. Must have been a very hardy one. Where there was no snow to-day there was heavy frost.
I took some photographs through the funicular windows with my pocket-sized Canon on the way down. The driver told us that funicular comes from the latin for rope.
During the skiing season, the trains start earlier, run every 10 mnutes instead of 20 and take 3 minutes less than our 8 to make the journey. 120 passengers max seems a trifle sardine like for the small carriage. Two more Ring Ousels flew across the car park as we drove off.
Sometime in the journey, I had my window open so that I could listen, and a flurry of minute hailstones landed in my lap. Where did they come from. I know, the sky !
Pam made her annual pilgrimage to the Reindeer Centre to ask after her adopted Strudel whilst I did a puzzle.
The entrances to the old Crested Tit watch place, Mhor Mhor, have been blocked off, the area is now overgrown with room for one car at the entrance. We tried, unsuccessfully for Crested Tit. They are so difficult at this season, nesting, not calling much and in the top canopies. In the Autumn and winter they are readily seen at bird feeding stations such as Loch Garten RSPB.
As we left Coylum Bridge, a Red Squirrel lay in the middle of the road. I quickly photographed it through the tinted and very sloping front windscreen before it ran off, straight up a tree. Was the road warm?
Maybe Loch an Eilein would turn up trumps. No, it didn't. We spent a bit of time watching a feeding area in the car park where I photographed a Chaffinch, the most numerous passerine bird in Scotland I think.
After a loo and shop visit where Pam bought some post cards at last - and I bought some unusual earrings - we tried Uath Lochan. No luck there either.
The other most frequently heard bird is the Willow Warbler.
Last resort was the track from Loch Garten car park through the woods beside the loch, leading to Loch Mallochie. We walked the length of Loch garten until we could see Mallochie without much luck. We heard a Crested Tit but failed to see one. We'd really tried to-day, for the first time I know. I'll blame the weather.......
Time to get back to the cottage and pack before an early start for Mull in the morning. We've loved our time here, despite the weather not being what we would choose. It wasn't that bad but not good birding conditions. We must also return to our earlier dates next year.
It's absolute bliss not having to clean the cottage before departure.
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