I want to begin at the end, a Bucket List much longed for experience - but that's not logical.
We lingered at the B and B until 9.30 as I'd been unable to book an earlier ferry than 2.00. The shop at which we stopped, on the outskirts of Uig, was another Tardis. Pam was able to get milk and all the papers I wanted - the Saturday Telegraph is a must for me. Our first Scottish Chiffchaff sang from a nearby wood. Far too early, we collected our tickets from the terminal building and drove up the road to park overlooking the bay. Uig is just a pier, a ferry teminal, a garage and cafe with a few houses around. We sat until 12.30, reading and doing puzzles whilst watching very little, apart from Merganser and Great Northern Diver, on the water.
After collecting some hot chocolate from the garage shop, we parked in Row 6 as instructed - the row for using the lifts on board. We've never done that before and it was well worth doing so. Plenty of room to get out of the car and, missing those infernal, steep flights of stairs.
Waiting at the end of the pier for our turn to board, I was about to photograph a group of juvenile and adult Eiders when a Black Guillemot popped up beside them.
A superbly summer plumaged adult Great Northern Diver was a little distant. As I took the shot, a gull swooped in! The Diver had a fish in its beak, something I didn't see until enlarging the photo.
Parking ourselves on some seats on an outside deck which was completely roofed, we waited.... and waited, the ship left half an hour late.
An amber warning had been issued this morning and although very rough, our passage was comfortable if rather cold. The birding was good. Gannets, flocks of Shearwaters, groups of Puffin, Guillemots and a few Razorbills with Fulmar using the ship as protection in flight.
Lochmaddy on North Uist at last. First impressions..... Lochmaddy was attractive. Flat, lots and lots of water everywhere - sea, lochans and flooded meadows and yet more heaving sea. Dual track and very smooth road becoming single track, but still a good surface, when we turned off for Tigharry, which is where we are staying.
We found the house easily and Effie came out to greet us. She knew that the ferry was late having consulted the internet. She'd also boiled the kettle for tea and made us a cake. She is a similar age to us. The self catering bit is very good. One sizeable room downstairs with a well equipped kitchen, dining area and a three piece suite. The entrance hall has a large toilet suite.
I haven't been upstairs yet. Pam tells me that both bedrooms are en suite and eaved and look lovely.
After a quick unpack we were off to RSPB Balranald, a mere 2.3 miles away. Past the centre we took the right hand unmade track towards the sea, Turnstones, Lapwings, Oystercatchers and Ringed Plover were almost invisible in the sandy machair through which we drove. At the end we found a rough parking area 50 metres from a raging sea. Wonderful. Room in the front row too.
Waw. Huge seas, waves breaking in all direction, colliding and trying to climb over each other in their haste to reach the shore. Truly awesome.
Even better, a lifetime's ambition. Groups of Long-tailed Skuas and Pomarine Skuas flying past, most fairly distant in such tempestuous wind with squally showers hurling against the car. I wasn't going to get out and scope in that. In mixed groups of between 20 and 30, the last of over a hundred, and close enough for a good view, of the adult Long-tailed Skuas. We probably saw nearly 300 in total before leaving at about 7.00 p.m.
On the way back, in gloomy light as yet another shower approached, half a dozen Twite fed on the machair.
Three great Soay rams grazed in a field near our home for the next week. I envy their coat.
Roll on to-morrow.
Sunday May 17
We were ensconced at Aird An Runair soon after 8.30 a.m., on a dry morning with less wind than last night - still enough though. There was still some skua passage , nothing compared with last night. The wind is a south westerly to-day, we need a northerly or, best of all, a north westerly, to bring the skuas closer to shore.One lovely Long-tailed Skua came near enough to photograph. Lack of light made it one dimensional and ill defined. My first Long-tailed Skua photos have to be published.
These nuisance blobs are an inexplicable blemish... the lens has been well polished !
Dave and Jaquie joined us at 10.30, their hotel breakfast is latish and then they need to drive from the Lochmaddy area. Next to us had been vacated, they could park there. The excitement of the morning was the sight of two Otters gambolling along the beach at the water's edge. Scrambling out with my camera, I was too late, they'd entered the sea and were swimming off underwater until reaching the edge of a large offshore rock. I got my scope out and found them actually on the rock. I tried some digiscoping, holding on to my scope which was shaking in the wind.
By now. it was a lovely day, blue sky and sun. It all looked beautiful. The tide was well out, new rocks exposed, swathes of seaweed beached on the white sand. Dunlin, Sanderling and Ringed Plover by the hundred, scurried along the sea edge, appearing to be legless in their frantic speed. There were even more last night, the beach seemed to be a living beast.
Ian and Johnny, two of Heatherlea's leaders plus two vanloads of birders occupied much of the parking place. Ian called them Black Maria's - the vans that is. We haven't seen him for three years.
Noon and time to go back to put a load of washing on. Another alien machine to sort out. I got it going.....We then went out again and drove to the St Kilda View Point. It's high by North Uist standards and is topped by a Geodesic Dome and a fenced Ministry of Defence compound. We saw a Buzzard and a Whimbrel on the way up and a male Hen Harrier on the way down. This is what this magnificent bird looked like through the front windscreen ! It's a day for lousy photographs.
J and D were coming for a cuppa at 3 as it was forecast to rain. It did, but not for long. We sorted the world and then drove to Runair again.. It was soul satisfying to sit there watching the incoming tide, the curve of a sandy beach on the left, large and haphazard breakers smashing over the rocks. And the odd bird. Two Great Northern Divers, four Eiders, Common and Arctic Terns, Gannets, distant groups of skuas black specks in the sky. Apart from two Pomarine Skuas hassling terns closer inshore, I could see the Skuas' spoons projecting from the tail, plus an adult Great Skua beating powerfully past. Still plenty of scurriers on the beach.
There are true Rock Doves on this island, incredibly flighty. I'll keep trying to get a photo....
We paid a quick visit to Lochs Sanderay for a male Scaup and to Poible for two Whooper Swans before retiring for the day. As we left the car, a Corncrake called loud and clear from just over the wall. Must investigate to-morrow.
We birders on Uist must be the only people in the UK to be looking forward to Tuesday's north westerlies.
Monday May 18
Phone reception is iffy on this island. When I got downstairs, there was a text from Jax asking if we could meet at the Golden Eagle nest site. It had arrived half an hour previously and we hadn't breakfasted - late after a shower etc. I texted back and had to go outside to send it. Jax didn't get it either. We drove off to the Eagle site and met them coming towards our place. We arranged to meet at the RSPB loos (!) before continuing to the nest site. An Englishman sets this up every year, training a scope on the distant nest and also showing it on his laptop. All for a donation, a good service. The Goldie was very distant but I managed to make it out, eventually.
Having met at the loos, the result of our discussion was to go for the Red-necked Phalaropes. J and D had already been unsuccessful three times.Dave led as he knew the way to Lochs Mhor and Fada on Benbecula. Crossing the causeway to Benbecula, a glance at the SatNav showed us driving across open water.
The roads on these islands are so much better than on Mull, a better surface, more two way traffic sections and much better passing places when one track.
I'm still amazed at the amount of water everywhere, I wish I had an aerial view. Not the most scenic of islands, but they have a charm of their own.Another male Hen Harrier crossed in front of us, Dave has still only seen a female.
We all parked in a passing place at the edge of Loch Mhor before scanning the lochs, which held Wigeon, Tufted Duck and Little Grebe. Pam and I thought we'd seen a small wader fly past and disappear in the direction of Loch Fada. Jax then suggested that we drive on to the larger hard area outside a house and they walked up. Jax and I and another birder scoped the lochs whilst Pam used her binoculars. Two Grey Herons, behind us, a Greenshank called, landed and left again. Pam called 'two birds have just flown in', pointing in the direction. I immediately got them in my scope. A pair of Red-necked Phalaropes. Brilliant. Everyone saw them before they swam off into the reeds and out of sight. I tried some digiscoping with limited success at such a distance.
Elated, we decided to go for a coffee. J suggested that we drove on to South Uist and the Hebridean Jewellery place which also has good coffee and cakes. And they did.
They also had some fantastic jewellery, Jax, Pam and I had a great time. Understandably, Dave eventually ran out of patience - after buying Jax a pair of earrings - and went out to bird.
It was then suggested that we go on to a bay which is known for its gulls. Bagh a Tuath we think. What a lovely place, even with the tide well out. No gulls at all but hundreds of small waders scurrying at the sea edge, mostly Sanderling with Turnstones and Dunlin too. All of a sudden an enormous flock rose from a distant rock before landing again. The rock looked pimpled all over. I took a photograph but it's a job to make them out.
I then took some of the littlies on the shore, they all turned out to be Sanderling.I couldn't decide which to use.....
A pair of Ravens kronked overhead.
At last we tore ourselves away. What a beautiful day. Plenty of cloud with non stop sun, not much wind either. Sweater only time.
We agreed to make our own way back so that Pam and I could linger. We'd seen some traditional thatched crofts on the way here. Grass thatch with rope and stones artistically draped as ballast for the thatch.
Via a Co-op for some provisions, we birded our way back, ending at Aird An Runair. No sign of any skuas in the calm conditions.
Driving back along the rough, sandy track through the machair, a Corn Bunting perched on a very small piece of dead vegetation close to the car. Irresistible.
We'd heard a Corncrake in our croft garden as we came back last night, nothing to-night. Text from J, D had seen TWO male Hen Harriers on the way back. A happy man.
Tuesday May 19
I spent the morning sea watching at Aird an Runaid headland - literally that - watching the sea and not a lot else. The wind had becoming northerly but, the skuas are following the Irish coast to-day. We made a return visit mid afternoon, our day's total was 15 Pomarine Skuas and two Arctic Skuas harrassing the numerous Common Terns. The skuas frighten the little waders to death, they rise in panicked flocks. Do skuas predate or kill waders? Must find out.(Yes they do, especially Great Skuas)
The highlight was a distant Iceland Gull which patrolled a large rock just offshore. We saw a dog Otter on here later, maybe that's what had attracted the gull. Much too distant for a photo, this is the best I could manage - another Ist photo so it's on here. Apologies !
Committee Road, which is a high moorland road to Sollis, is a noted raptor area.We said goodbye to J and D, arranging to meet them later. The nearest garage also has a well stocked shop. I bought some large oranges which were rather soft. The till lady commented on this and took money off. I was very impressed. We've found the locals, shop-keepers etc here very friendly, welcoming and amenable, different from Mull and the Highlands where one can be made to feel like an alien - if you allow them to.
The first bird we saw on the high road was a White-tailed Eagle which Pam saw rise above the skyline. The second was another male Hen Harrier, such lovely birds. John M was leaning on my window having a chat at the time, uttered an expletive before rushing off to get his camera and left me with a snatch job as it sped by below. My fault, not John's, I can never predict where they're going. Sitting in the car doesn't give one much scope. Another less than good photograph. One day....
We also saw one Curlew and a Stonechat.
There's still a lot of peat cutting going on, especially on this moor.
The campsite at Balranald has a 'soup shed' as J calls it. A small shed-like dispenser of drinks sandwiches and soup.We decided that a hot chocolate was necessary before the sea again. The woman in charge told Pam that her family owned the camp site, little food place and farmed beef cattle which they're still having to feed silage. There's hardly any grass. Her 9 year old son has a flock of 24 Texels. Pam asked about the black rams I pictured earlier this week which are too big to be Soay. They're Hebridean and these three are prized show animals which are shown as far away as England.
Back to our favourite parking spot, which is slightly higher and gives better views. A few more Poms and two Arctics were still swooping and performing their nimble, acrobatic skirmishes against the frantic terns. Such a pleasure to watch, whilst feeling a tiny bit sorry for the terns.
We said bye to everyone and ..... the Corn Bunting was on his singing post (twig) again, singing his heart out.
Song? It has been likened to jangling a bunch of keys. The machair was still alive with Twite, Rock Doves, Ringed Plovers and Common Gulls.
What? A Corncrake was standing in the open beside the road. It only took seconds to stop and get our cameras ready. Too late, it had run into the irises.
Pam wanted a look at the Golden Eagle nest site before turning in for the night.We couldn't see a bird anywhere.
Another almost rain free day with sun for much of it. Cool wind, the locals are complaining.
Sunday May 17
We were ensconced at Aird An Runair soon after 8.30 a.m., on a dry morning with less wind than last night - still enough though. There was still some skua passage , nothing compared with last night. The wind is a south westerly to-day, we need a northerly or, best of all, a north westerly, to bring the skuas closer to shore.One lovely Long-tailed Skua came near enough to photograph. Lack of light made it one dimensional and ill defined. My first Long-tailed Skua photos have to be published.
Dave and Jaquie joined us at 10.30, their hotel breakfast is latish and then they need to drive from the Lochmaddy area. Next to us had been vacated, they could park there. The excitement of the morning was the sight of two Otters gambolling along the beach at the water's edge. Scrambling out with my camera, I was too late, they'd entered the sea and were swimming off underwater until reaching the edge of a large offshore rock. I got my scope out and found them actually on the rock. I tried some digiscoping, holding on to my scope which was shaking in the wind.
By now. it was a lovely day, blue sky and sun. It all looked beautiful. The tide was well out, new rocks exposed, swathes of seaweed beached on the white sand. Dunlin, Sanderling and Ringed Plover by the hundred, scurried along the sea edge, appearing to be legless in their frantic speed. There were even more last night, the beach seemed to be a living beast.
Ian and Johnny, two of Heatherlea's leaders plus two vanloads of birders occupied much of the parking place. Ian called them Black Maria's - the vans that is. We haven't seen him for three years.
 |
| The machair has many of these handsome summer plumaged Turnstones |
J and D were coming for a cuppa at 3 as it was forecast to rain. It did, but not for long. We sorted the world and then drove to Runair again.. It was soul satisfying to sit there watching the incoming tide, the curve of a sandy beach on the left, large and haphazard breakers smashing over the rocks. And the odd bird. Two Great Northern Divers, four Eiders, Common and Arctic Terns, Gannets, distant groups of skuas black specks in the sky. Apart from two Pomarine Skuas hassling terns closer inshore, I could see the Skuas' spoons projecting from the tail, plus an adult Great Skua beating powerfully past. Still plenty of scurriers on the beach.
There are true Rock Doves on this island, incredibly flighty. I'll keep trying to get a photo....
We paid a quick visit to Lochs Sanderay for a male Scaup and to Poible for two Whooper Swans before retiring for the day. As we left the car, a Corncrake called loud and clear from just over the wall. Must investigate to-morrow.
We birders on Uist must be the only people in the UK to be looking forward to Tuesday's north westerlies.
Monday May 18
Phone reception is iffy on this island. When I got downstairs, there was a text from Jax asking if we could meet at the Golden Eagle nest site. It had arrived half an hour previously and we hadn't breakfasted - late after a shower etc. I texted back and had to go outside to send it. Jax didn't get it either. We drove off to the Eagle site and met them coming towards our place. We arranged to meet at the RSPB loos (!) before continuing to the nest site. An Englishman sets this up every year, training a scope on the distant nest and also showing it on his laptop. All for a donation, a good service. The Goldie was very distant but I managed to make it out, eventually.
Having met at the loos, the result of our discussion was to go for the Red-necked Phalaropes. J and D had already been unsuccessful three times.Dave led as he knew the way to Lochs Mhor and Fada on Benbecula. Crossing the causeway to Benbecula, a glance at the SatNav showed us driving across open water.
The roads on these islands are so much better than on Mull, a better surface, more two way traffic sections and much better passing places when one track.
I'm still amazed at the amount of water everywhere, I wish I had an aerial view. Not the most scenic of islands, but they have a charm of their own.Another male Hen Harrier crossed in front of us, Dave has still only seen a female.
We all parked in a passing place at the edge of Loch Mhor before scanning the lochs, which held Wigeon, Tufted Duck and Little Grebe. Pam and I thought we'd seen a small wader fly past and disappear in the direction of Loch Fada. Jax then suggested that we drive on to the larger hard area outside a house and they walked up. Jax and I and another birder scoped the lochs whilst Pam used her binoculars. Two Grey Herons, behind us, a Greenshank called, landed and left again. Pam called 'two birds have just flown in', pointing in the direction. I immediately got them in my scope. A pair of Red-necked Phalaropes. Brilliant. Everyone saw them before they swam off into the reeds and out of sight. I tried some digiscoping with limited success at such a distance.
 |
| The colourful female is on the left |
They also had some fantastic jewellery, Jax, Pam and I had a great time. Understandably, Dave eventually ran out of patience - after buying Jax a pair of earrings - and went out to bird.
It was then suggested that we go on to a bay which is known for its gulls. Bagh a Tuath we think. What a lovely place, even with the tide well out. No gulls at all but hundreds of small waders scurrying at the sea edge, mostly Sanderling with Turnstones and Dunlin too. All of a sudden an enormous flock rose from a distant rock before landing again. The rock looked pimpled all over. I took a photograph but it's a job to make them out.
I then took some of the littlies on the shore, they all turned out to be Sanderling.I couldn't decide which to use.....
A pair of Ravens kronked overhead.
At last we tore ourselves away. What a beautiful day. Plenty of cloud with non stop sun, not much wind either. Sweater only time.
We agreed to make our own way back so that Pam and I could linger. We'd seen some traditional thatched crofts on the way here. Grass thatch with rope and stones artistically draped as ballast for the thatch.
Via a Co-op for some provisions, we birded our way back, ending at Aird An Runair. No sign of any skuas in the calm conditions.
Driving back along the rough, sandy track through the machair, a Corn Bunting perched on a very small piece of dead vegetation close to the car. Irresistible.
We'd heard a Corncrake in our croft garden as we came back last night, nothing to-night. Text from J, D had seen TWO male Hen Harriers on the way back. A happy man.
Tuesday May 19
I spent the morning sea watching at Aird an Runaid headland - literally that - watching the sea and not a lot else. The wind had becoming northerly but, the skuas are following the Irish coast to-day. We made a return visit mid afternoon, our day's total was 15 Pomarine Skuas and two Arctic Skuas harrassing the numerous Common Terns. The skuas frighten the little waders to death, they rise in panicked flocks. Do skuas predate or kill waders? Must find out.(Yes they do, especially Great Skuas)
The highlight was a distant Iceland Gull which patrolled a large rock just offshore. We saw a dog Otter on here later, maybe that's what had attracted the gull. Much too distant for a photo, this is the best I could manage - another Ist photo so it's on here. Apologies !
Committee Road, which is a high moorland road to Sollis, is a noted raptor area.We said goodbye to J and D, arranging to meet them later. The nearest garage also has a well stocked shop. I bought some large oranges which were rather soft. The till lady commented on this and took money off. I was very impressed. We've found the locals, shop-keepers etc here very friendly, welcoming and amenable, different from Mull and the Highlands where one can be made to feel like an alien - if you allow them to.
The first bird we saw on the high road was a White-tailed Eagle which Pam saw rise above the skyline. The second was another male Hen Harrier, such lovely birds. John M was leaning on my window having a chat at the time, uttered an expletive before rushing off to get his camera and left me with a snatch job as it sped by below. My fault, not John's, I can never predict where they're going. Sitting in the car doesn't give one much scope. Another less than good photograph. One day....
We also saw one Curlew and a Stonechat.
There's still a lot of peat cutting going on, especially on this moor.
The campsite at Balranald has a 'soup shed' as J calls it. A small shed-like dispenser of drinks sandwiches and soup.We decided that a hot chocolate was necessary before the sea again. The woman in charge told Pam that her family owned the camp site, little food place and farmed beef cattle which they're still having to feed silage. There's hardly any grass. Her 9 year old son has a flock of 24 Texels. Pam asked about the black rams I pictured earlier this week which are too big to be Soay. They're Hebridean and these three are prized show animals which are shown as far away as England.
Back to our favourite parking spot, which is slightly higher and gives better views. A few more Poms and two Arctics were still swooping and performing their nimble, acrobatic skirmishes against the frantic terns. Such a pleasure to watch, whilst feeling a tiny bit sorry for the terns.
We said bye to everyone and ..... the Corn Bunting was on his singing post (twig) again, singing his heart out.
Song? It has been likened to jangling a bunch of keys. The machair was still alive with Twite, Rock Doves, Ringed Plovers and Common Gulls.
What? A Corncrake was standing in the open beside the road. It only took seconds to stop and get our cameras ready. Too late, it had run into the irises.
Pam wanted a look at the Golden Eagle nest site before turning in for the night.We couldn't see a bird anywhere.
Another almost rain free day with sun for much of it. Cool wind, the locals are complaining.
Got back to find that Effie (landlady) had raided our cupboards
for glasses and plates as she had 6 cyclists arriving for dinner. We then found
that they used our entrance, hung their stuff in our hall and used our
downstairs loo. Not good enough. She lives on the premises but we're self
catering and what we've paid for is ours!. We're both cross.
They've just collected their things and left - via our hall and entrance again.
We plan some exploration to-morrow with a probable return for a hopeful skua watch in the evening. We've been incredibly lucky so far. J and D only saw a total of six skuas during their entire visit last year, the passage is so wind dependant.
Wednesday May 20
What a way to start the day. A male Hen Harrier flew by as Pam unlocked the car. A beautiful morning too, blue sky and almost no wind. The island of Eriskay was the end objective, off the southwest coast of South Uist. How can North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist and Eriskay be classed as islands when they are all connected by causeways? Skye is now connected to the mainland too and there are arguments about its status as an island. I prefer to take the historical perspective.
A surprise Whooper Swan appeared in a small roadside lochan.
It wasn't long down the road before our first Short-eared Owl was seen by Pam. It was flying about the valley and houses hunting, flying fast and in all directions.I scrambled out of the car, managed some photographs on auto - none of which were pin sharp. Pooh.
The second Short-eared was even less co-operative, such lovely birds.
The sight of a Viking longship (facsimile?) drew our attention to a cafe and museum.
Time for a drink and a read of the 'Island News' . I love reading local papers and this was a good one. It explained the roadworks and flying chippings for a start. Like the old days. The rest of the road is smooth tarmac.
The last part of the journey was pretty tedious scenery wise, featureless moorland, the ever present water missing. Until we got to the Causeway, after a stop to scope a juvenile Red-throated Diver. Eriskay is mountainous and has two short roads, one to the left after the causeway and one to the right which goes to the Barra ferry terminal. The causeway itself is interesting with views of seals on rocks and warnings to look out for otters crossing. The walls are enormous boulders, the animals would have a job climbing them.
After climbing to the top, the road dropped down to the small ferry harbour where we parked, as a Barra ferry was coming in. Gannets diving the Minch.
We left pretty sharply, so that we could beat the ferry traffic, stopping to photograph the causeway from the Eriskay side.
Our unplanned stop exposed another beautiful pale sand bay with blue and green Caribbean-coloured sea stretching to an island beyond. So many of them on these islands, at their best on a sunny day.
The plan was to explore side roads on the return journey, Lochboisedale first. That was lacking in both scenic and bird interest.
Loch Eynort was immediately attractive.The narrow road wound its way through low vegetation lining the rocky banks of a meandering loch, water fast emptying on a dropping tide. We took the North Loch Eynort fork. Gradually, the loch widened, we never did see where it met the open sea. The road stopped at a small wood - an unusual feature on Uist - with parking space for 4 cars. No room for us. As soon as we stopped, we heard a Cuckoo, which immediately appeared, flying fast, jinking between the trees. A Hebridean sub species Wren sang and a Chaffinch and a Robin were very interested in a dog's water bowl. The dog belonged to the Padleys, friends of J and D's who were parked in front of us on the ferry from Skye. They and their friends are very pleasant. Chris was very helpful with info regarding places we haven't found on the maps e.g. Stinky Bay !
He also told us where to find the Rose-coloured Starling first reported yesterday. Great, thanks very much.
Oh dear, mist and rain swept in like an enveloping curtain.
Luckily it had cleared by the time we reached Ardnavachar, the bay Dave led us to on Monday. We drove the unmade track past the car park and cemetery until we saw a bunch of birders with scopes. We were nearby when their leader, Ian, located the Starling sitting on a fence at the edge of the bay, some distance away. Ian offered me the use of his scope just as Pam drove up, I thought she'd gone to get the scope. No red flag flying, we were free to drive on further, keeping a respectable distance from the Rose-coloured Starling. Another car didn't - they were uniformed workers, not birders.They drove right along the fence line, spooking the Starling which flew back to the cemetery. I had taken a couple of hopeful pics.
As we left, J and D arrived. In earlier texts, I'd told them we were on Eriskay. Unfortunately, Apple decided to change this to Zero Lay !!! D spent ages trying to find the place. Phone reception is very sketchy so they didn't get my amendment text until much later.
An unsuccessful go at seeing the Phalaropes again, in steady drizzle, before home. Would the Corncrake play ball? Yes, he was in the open for about 20 seconds before scuttling for cover. I managed to get the whole bird on four pics - all blurred in the near dark. Better luck next time.
Snipe were still performing their display flight in the twilight, rising high into the sky on rapidly fluttering wings, the wings making the 'drumming' noise as they descended.
Thursday May 21
Waking to low overcast and drizzle was not conducive to an early start. It was almost 11 a.m. before we arrived at the soup hut at Balranald. It was closed, the owner has a stomach upset.
Even in these poor conditions, Dunlin were performing their territorial flight displays, flying very high like Skylarks, wings all a'flutter, uttering a strange call.
We met Ian and his busload leaving. He said that there was a trickle of skuas still going through north.
The sea at Aird an Runair was rather rough this morning, visibility not good. In the hour we stayed, we saw the juvenile Iceland Gull again, one Arctic and one Pom Skua, Gannets, Great Northern Divers and Fulmar. All but a few of the small waders have gone on their way, those remaining are mostly Sanderling.
Time to drive to J and D's hotel where we'd arranged to eat our packed lunch. If only Pam could work out where Dave had said it was. After a fruitless exploration of the Lochmaddy area, a postman came to our assistance. They do not have phone reception at their hotel, so my texts and phoning didn't get through. Frustration. It was the Langass Lodge Hotel about half a mile down a side road, beautifully situated overlooking a loch, with hills beyond. They'd both been working on their photographs all morning. Sensible decision.
After eating our rolls etc and a cup of tea, we saw their lovely bedroom. Sitting up in bed and looking at their view would be a great start to the day. A Stonechat sat on the fence and a Wren sang, Dave's been trying to see a Wren too, he thinks the local sub species is darker than those at home.
J and D went off to sea watch, Pam and I drove to Sollas and the Committee Road before joining them. Our trip was a waste of time. The drizzle was heavier, the mist thicker and lower, our worst day here by far.
We managed a few skuas, both Long-tailed and Poms, alerted by Dave and the local expert's car beeps. They were scoping from the car in the rain. I tried for a while but got too wet and frustrated peering through the murk.The Gannets delight me always.
On the return journey, I tried to make up for the lack of photography to-day. I shouldn't have bothered.
Friday May 22
Our last day on the Islands, would it be reasonable weather? The day dawned dry and overcast.We were late setting off after showers - Pam's room has a bath so she uses mine - J and D were at the point before us. It was very slow this morning too. Not even the usual stream of Gannets, weather too good. We did see two Pom Skuas before we left, plus the usual Sanderling, Ringed Plover, Dunlin, Great Northern Diver and Arctic and Common Terns.
Committee Road towards Sollas was quiet too, until we found a Short-eared Owl. Three Ravens and a Stonechat on the way back to the main road, where we turned left towards Benbecula.
First though, to find a self catering place I saw on the net last night. Down the Paibles ring road, then turning off to a dead end road with the new bungalow at the end. We couldn't have a nose about as there was a car parked in the drive. The place looks and sounds great and is within sight of a small loch and walking distance from a beach. Best of all, the owner doesn't live on the premises.
I love driving across the causeways between the islands. especially on what was now a lovely sunny day, the temperature rising to 12C ! Turning off for Loch Mhor, there was no sign of any Phalaropes where we last saw them. Driving on to a layby at the far end, a birder had seen three earlier. I got out and scoped the loch for some time until I got too cold in a sweater. I found some Arctic Terns on their nests, two Gadwall for the islands, the ubiquitous Tufted Ducks and Redshanks. Getting back in the car to warm up, Pam got out and immediately saw a Phalarope fly in. By the time I'd fallen out again, it had disappeared into the edges and out of sight. I left Pam chatting to the RSPB warden who had just drawn up, and sought comfort again. It took 2 minutes this time, two more Red-necked Phalaropes had flown in. This time, I fell out in time to re-erect the scope and see them.
I've been looking for Stinky Bay since we arrived. The names that birders use are not those found on any map. To-day, we found it. The bay before Ardnavachar Bay has a beautiful beach. As we drove past, the tide was low and three quarters of the sand covered in festering seaweed. Stinky Bay indeed.
A short stay to have a drink and something to eat at the Hebridean jewellery place (no, I didn't buy any more), before heading back to North Uist. One more diversion to somewhere new, Kallin Bay on the east coast which is a genuine working harbour, the centre of a shellfish business. Enjoyable but no birds to keep us.
Pam decided on a last drive up Committee Road ( which has been referred to as Communion, Combination and Combustable when her memory fails). Ravens again, time to have a look at the bogland flowers. We think these are Bogbean........
The small stunted Willows are coming into leaf at last.
The machair has special spring flowers, most of which haven't appeared yet. It's covered with daisies, the verges lined with Colts Foot, it will look even better in a week or two.
The many roadside rivulets have enormous patches of the deeply gold, Marsh Marigolds.
A last visit to Runair to say goodbye to J and D, they don't leave until next Wednesday. A last attempt to photograph Corncrake, which were only showing little and occasionally - the Millers were there. Home to pack the car, we have a very early start in the morning. We have to be at the ferry in Lochmaddy by 6.45 at the latest.
Goodbye the lovely Wheatears too.
We've loved the islands, even the stark bits. As we packed the car, Snipe displayed, Skylark sang and a Corncrake craked distantly. One of the highlights of the day was seeing Redshanks with four delightful chicks, which couldn't have been more than a day old. Here's to next year.
Saturday May 23
We were away from Cnoc nan Uan by 5.30 - with no sign of Effie. She needs to learn what self catering means.
Two Short-eared Owls and one male Hen Harrier on the way to Lochmaddy ferry terminal - where we were the second car to arrive.
The ferry crossing was dead calm, no wind at all this morning. J later phoned to say that it was very wet and extremely windy on Benbecula in the afternoon. We were early off the boat too and made steady progress through Skye and onto the mainland. It was nice to see Skye in sunshine.
With several rest stops, we arrived at Carlisle Todhills to find that we were booked in for last night. What an idiotic thing to do. It being the first mistake ever does not make up for it. Everywhere for miles fully booked. We ended up at Scotch Corner for the night, all's well that ends well I suppose. We should be home earlier than expected to-morrow, time to do some Norfolk birding en route.
Wednesday May 20
What a way to start the day. A male Hen Harrier flew by as Pam unlocked the car. A beautiful morning too, blue sky and almost no wind. The island of Eriskay was the end objective, off the southwest coast of South Uist. How can North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist and Eriskay be classed as islands when they are all connected by causeways? Skye is now connected to the mainland too and there are arguments about its status as an island. I prefer to take the historical perspective.
A surprise Whooper Swan appeared in a small roadside lochan.
It wasn't long down the road before our first Short-eared Owl was seen by Pam. It was flying about the valley and houses hunting, flying fast and in all directions.I scrambled out of the car, managed some photographs on auto - none of which were pin sharp. Pooh.
The second Short-eared was even less co-operative, such lovely birds.
The sight of a Viking longship (facsimile?) drew our attention to a cafe and museum.
Time for a drink and a read of the 'Island News' . I love reading local papers and this was a good one. It explained the roadworks and flying chippings for a start. Like the old days. The rest of the road is smooth tarmac.
The last part of the journey was pretty tedious scenery wise, featureless moorland, the ever present water missing. Until we got to the Causeway, after a stop to scope a juvenile Red-throated Diver. Eriskay is mountainous and has two short roads, one to the left after the causeway and one to the right which goes to the Barra ferry terminal. The causeway itself is interesting with views of seals on rocks and warnings to look out for otters crossing. The walls are enormous boulders, the animals would have a job climbing them.
After climbing to the top, the road dropped down to the small ferry harbour where we parked, as a Barra ferry was coming in. Gannets diving the Minch.
We left pretty sharply, so that we could beat the ferry traffic, stopping to photograph the causeway from the Eriskay side.
Our unplanned stop exposed another beautiful pale sand bay with blue and green Caribbean-coloured sea stretching to an island beyond. So many of them on these islands, at their best on a sunny day.
The plan was to explore side roads on the return journey, Lochboisedale first. That was lacking in both scenic and bird interest.
Loch Eynort was immediately attractive.The narrow road wound its way through low vegetation lining the rocky banks of a meandering loch, water fast emptying on a dropping tide. We took the North Loch Eynort fork. Gradually, the loch widened, we never did see where it met the open sea. The road stopped at a small wood - an unusual feature on Uist - with parking space for 4 cars. No room for us. As soon as we stopped, we heard a Cuckoo, which immediately appeared, flying fast, jinking between the trees. A Hebridean sub species Wren sang and a Chaffinch and a Robin were very interested in a dog's water bowl. The dog belonged to the Padleys, friends of J and D's who were parked in front of us on the ferry from Skye. They and their friends are very pleasant. Chris was very helpful with info regarding places we haven't found on the maps e.g. Stinky Bay !
He also told us where to find the Rose-coloured Starling first reported yesterday. Great, thanks very much.
Oh dear, mist and rain swept in like an enveloping curtain.
Luckily it had cleared by the time we reached Ardnavachar, the bay Dave led us to on Monday. We drove the unmade track past the car park and cemetery until we saw a bunch of birders with scopes. We were nearby when their leader, Ian, located the Starling sitting on a fence at the edge of the bay, some distance away. Ian offered me the use of his scope just as Pam drove up, I thought she'd gone to get the scope. No red flag flying, we were free to drive on further, keeping a respectable distance from the Rose-coloured Starling. Another car didn't - they were uniformed workers, not birders.They drove right along the fence line, spooking the Starling which flew back to the cemetery. I had taken a couple of hopeful pics.
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| Good at the splits |
An unsuccessful go at seeing the Phalaropes again, in steady drizzle, before home. Would the Corncrake play ball? Yes, he was in the open for about 20 seconds before scuttling for cover. I managed to get the whole bird on four pics - all blurred in the near dark. Better luck next time.
Snipe were still performing their display flight in the twilight, rising high into the sky on rapidly fluttering wings, the wings making the 'drumming' noise as they descended.
Thursday May 21
Waking to low overcast and drizzle was not conducive to an early start. It was almost 11 a.m. before we arrived at the soup hut at Balranald. It was closed, the owner has a stomach upset.
Even in these poor conditions, Dunlin were performing their territorial flight displays, flying very high like Skylarks, wings all a'flutter, uttering a strange call.
We met Ian and his busload leaving. He said that there was a trickle of skuas still going through north.
The sea at Aird an Runair was rather rough this morning, visibility not good. In the hour we stayed, we saw the juvenile Iceland Gull again, one Arctic and one Pom Skua, Gannets, Great Northern Divers and Fulmar. All but a few of the small waders have gone on their way, those remaining are mostly Sanderling.
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| A wet, sandy-beaked, summer Sanderling on the machair. |
After eating our rolls etc and a cup of tea, we saw their lovely bedroom. Sitting up in bed and looking at their view would be a great start to the day. A Stonechat sat on the fence and a Wren sang, Dave's been trying to see a Wren too, he thinks the local sub species is darker than those at home.
J and D went off to sea watch, Pam and I drove to Sollas and the Committee Road before joining them. Our trip was a waste of time. The drizzle was heavier, the mist thicker and lower, our worst day here by far.
We managed a few skuas, both Long-tailed and Poms, alerted by Dave and the local expert's car beeps. They were scoping from the car in the rain. I tried for a while but got too wet and frustrated peering through the murk.The Gannets delight me always.
On the return journey, I tried to make up for the lack of photography to-day. I shouldn't have bothered.
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| Skylark |
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| A well grown Lapwing chick, past the aaaaah stage. |
Friday May 22
Our last day on the Islands, would it be reasonable weather? The day dawned dry and overcast.We were late setting off after showers - Pam's room has a bath so she uses mine - J and D were at the point before us. It was very slow this morning too. Not even the usual stream of Gannets, weather too good. We did see two Pom Skuas before we left, plus the usual Sanderling, Ringed Plover, Dunlin, Great Northern Diver and Arctic and Common Terns.
Committee Road towards Sollas was quiet too, until we found a Short-eared Owl. Three Ravens and a Stonechat on the way back to the main road, where we turned left towards Benbecula.
First though, to find a self catering place I saw on the net last night. Down the Paibles ring road, then turning off to a dead end road with the new bungalow at the end. We couldn't have a nose about as there was a car parked in the drive. The place looks and sounds great and is within sight of a small loch and walking distance from a beach. Best of all, the owner doesn't live on the premises.
I love driving across the causeways between the islands. especially on what was now a lovely sunny day, the temperature rising to 12C ! Turning off for Loch Mhor, there was no sign of any Phalaropes where we last saw them. Driving on to a layby at the far end, a birder had seen three earlier. I got out and scoped the loch for some time until I got too cold in a sweater. I found some Arctic Terns on their nests, two Gadwall for the islands, the ubiquitous Tufted Ducks and Redshanks. Getting back in the car to warm up, Pam got out and immediately saw a Phalarope fly in. By the time I'd fallen out again, it had disappeared into the edges and out of sight. I left Pam chatting to the RSPB warden who had just drawn up, and sought comfort again. It took 2 minutes this time, two more Red-necked Phalaropes had flown in. This time, I fell out in time to re-erect the scope and see them.
I've been looking for Stinky Bay since we arrived. The names that birders use are not those found on any map. To-day, we found it. The bay before Ardnavachar Bay has a beautiful beach. As we drove past, the tide was low and three quarters of the sand covered in festering seaweed. Stinky Bay indeed.
A short stay to have a drink and something to eat at the Hebridean jewellery place (no, I didn't buy any more), before heading back to North Uist. One more diversion to somewhere new, Kallin Bay on the east coast which is a genuine working harbour, the centre of a shellfish business. Enjoyable but no birds to keep us.
Pam decided on a last drive up Committee Road ( which has been referred to as Communion, Combination and Combustable when her memory fails). Ravens again, time to have a look at the bogland flowers. We think these are Bogbean........
The small stunted Willows are coming into leaf at last.
The machair has special spring flowers, most of which haven't appeared yet. It's covered with daisies, the verges lined with Colts Foot, it will look even better in a week or two.
The many roadside rivulets have enormous patches of the deeply gold, Marsh Marigolds.
A last visit to Runair to say goodbye to J and D, they don't leave until next Wednesday. A last attempt to photograph Corncrake, which were only showing little and occasionally - the Millers were there. Home to pack the car, we have a very early start in the morning. We have to be at the ferry in Lochmaddy by 6.45 at the latest.
Goodbye the lovely Wheatears too.
We've loved the islands, even the stark bits. As we packed the car, Snipe displayed, Skylark sang and a Corncrake craked distantly. One of the highlights of the day was seeing Redshanks with four delightful chicks, which couldn't have been more than a day old. Here's to next year.
Saturday May 23
We were away from Cnoc nan Uan by 5.30 - with no sign of Effie. She needs to learn what self catering means.
Two Short-eared Owls and one male Hen Harrier on the way to Lochmaddy ferry terminal - where we were the second car to arrive.
The ferry crossing was dead calm, no wind at all this morning. J later phoned to say that it was very wet and extremely windy on Benbecula in the afternoon. We were early off the boat too and made steady progress through Skye and onto the mainland. It was nice to see Skye in sunshine.
With several rest stops, we arrived at Carlisle Todhills to find that we were booked in for last night. What an idiotic thing to do. It being the first mistake ever does not make up for it. Everywhere for miles fully booked. We ended up at Scotch Corner for the night, all's well that ends well I suppose. We should be home earlier than expected to-morrow, time to do some Norfolk birding en route.
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